Last week I tried, and raved about Thierry Mugler’s new Alien Le Goût du Parfum. Since then I’ve had the opportunity to try two more fragrances from the ultra-limited series; A*Men and Womanity (I haven’t had the chance to try Angel properly yet), so I thought I would do a quick follow up post on how they smell. Are you ready for another ‘Fumegasm’?
In case you missed it, the idea behind Le Goût du Parfum , as mentioned in my last post, is:
The concept behind Le Goût du Parfum (The Taste of Fragrance) is simple – take the already bold, and mostly gourmand structures of four Thierry Mugler scents (Angel, Alien, Womanity and A*Men) and add a ‘Taste Enhancer’ to each. Le Goût du Parfum creates “a genuine parallel between Haute Cuisine and Haute Parfumerie.” To achieve this parallel Mugler enlisted leading Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze to create an “entirely Muglerian Meal” based on these four new limited editions.
A*Men
The Notes
Top: Bergamot, Lavender, Coriander and Peppermint
Heart: Patchouli and Atlas Cedar
Base: Coffee, Stryax, Tonka and Musk [1]
Taste Enhancer: Red Chilli Pepper
How Does it Smell?
A*Men is what I would describe as an ‘everything but the kitchen sink’ fragrance, it consists of a variety of notes that when joined together shouldn’t work but absolutely do. It’s also a ‘love-it-or-hate-it’ fragrance, some think it smells great, others would rather die than wear it. The nuclear strength and longevity don’t help either…
The Taste of Fragrance version of A*Men follows a long line of flankers, each of which changes the signature of the fragrance by focusing on or adding a particular note (i.e. Pure Coffee, Pure Malt and Pure Havane). This time Mugler has decided to add a note of Red Chilli Pepper.
The idea of chilli and chocolate is nothing new, so I’m not surprised to see it being used within the latest incarnation of A*Men. The opening blast is quite shocking, despite knowing that the chilli note was there I was quite taken aback. The chilli adds a sour, savoury yet almost liquorice vibe which is really unusual. The spicy, woody vibe of A*Men Le Goût du Parfum is reminiscent of Mugler’s other (sadly discontinued) masculine – B*Men.
The rest of the fragrance is very subdued for something that carries the A*Men name, the chilli rides on top of warm coffee and patchouli before laying back on a bed of warm tonka and vanilla. A*Men Le Goût du Parfum isn’t my favourite of the series BUT, I do think it will find many fans and it is probably my favourite of the A*Men incarnations, after Pure Coffee that is.
Womanity
The Notes
Top: Citrus Notes and Green Notes
Heart: Figs, Caviar Accord, Animal Notes and Aquatic Notes
Base: Fig Tree, Woodsy Notes, Oriental Notes and Sunny Notes [2]
Taste Enhancer: Fig Chutney
How Does it Smell?
I am naming this one ‘Womanity 2.0′ because it very much feels like an updated, refined version of the original Womanity. The original is a HUGE woody/fruity/aquatic/bready thing that feels very diffusive, and in true Mugler style – loud. What Mugler has done with Womanity Le Goût du Parfum is some serious perfume editing, focus has been put on tweaking the formula, taking out the bad bits and keeping the stuff that makes it great.
Interestingly, out of all of the Taste of Fragrance editions, Womanity is the one that is least different from the original scent but it’s the subtle difference that REALLY make it work. As mentioned above, it feels as if they’ve removed all of the harsh parts of Womanity and focused on the good stuff, namely the jammy fig note and the weird, bread-like ‘caviar’.
The fig in Womanity Le Goût du Parfum is much warmer and jammier than the original, gone is the intrusive, fresh aquaticness, and whilst I admire the original for being so damn unusual, I can’t help but feel that I prefer Womanity without those loud, diffusive aquatic notes. As ‘Womanity 2.0′ develops the fig gets warmer, and spicier. Yes that’s right, there is a lovely hint of spice to the fig chutney and it adds to Womanity’s savoury nature and the overall effect is simply glorious.
Another surprise, and yet another triumph from Mugler!
Availability
A*Men Le Goût du Parfum is available in 100ml and Womanity Le Goût du Parfum is available in 50ml Eau de Parfum, both for £50.
Disclaimer
This review is based on bottles of A*Men and Womanity Le Goût du Parfum provided by Thierry Mugler.
[1] & [2] osmoz.com
Image 1, 2 & 3 luxuryactivist.com
My mouth just filled with saliva reading your thoughts on Womanity 2.0. It sounds like a good move, downsizing this and focusing on a few aspects, and, from the looks of things, making it an improvement would you say?
Definitely an improvement, although I do appreciate the original Womanity for being so different, Womanity 2.0 is just a heck of a lot more wearable!
Right, so I think I will skip the first one but Womanity Mk II sounds promising – you did think I might like it. Certainly the “woody/fruity/aquatic/bready” thing didn’t work for me one bit. Meanwhile, I’m coming over all dreamy in Bottega Veneta. If a single perfume could encapsulate my “style” of scent, this may be it, so if the new Mugler has the volume pumped down to that sort of level, I’m very hopeful!
It’s all still in there, except for the aquatic stuff, but it’s a lot quiter. I’m including some in your little package.
I have only just tried Bottega Veneta but have to agree that it is very nice!
Oh, thank you, I am all excited now! I meant to ask whether you know/have Roja Dove Scandal already. I assumed so because of our BN meet, but if not it might also fit your “loud and showy” floral bill and I should have some more coming to me from Ebay, if all goes to plan… : – ) (Sorry for off-topic side note.)
Not a problem
I feel ashamed to admit that I haven’t tried it, which is a disgrace for someone who claims to love the ‘loud and showy’ florals!
I’m hoping to get your package out tomorrow/Friday, apologies for being slow
Scandal lack noted! Bottle arrived today, mercifully intact despite the most ridiculously flimsy packaging.
Oh, Womanity without the annoying aquatics could be really lovely! With the original Womanity, I loved the bread accord in the beginning, but ran a mile afterwards.
This collection sounds mouthwateringly good, as it very well should.
I am including some in your package too, I’d be interested to hear what you think of it. Sorry for being useless and not sending it earlier
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