The Alien Queen – Thierry Mugler Alien Essence Absolue Perfume Review

Alien Essence Absolue

“At the height of her radiance, the statuesque solar goddess embodies sensuality more than ever before. In her magnetic aura, intense emotions burst forth and open the door to new imaginary worlds.”

Thierry Mugler’s second major feminine Alien has managed to become almost as popular and iconic as its sister fragrance Angel, which is no mean feat when you consider exactly how popular the latter is. Since its release in 2005 Mugler has released a plethora of Alien Editions, each of which has seemed better than the last, and it would be fair to say that the very latest edition ‘Alien Essence Absolue’ is the best yet, and they know it too hailing Essence Absolue as “The Supreme Perfume”.

What I love about the Thierry Mugler brand is that they are not afraid to experiment, not only with their flagship launches but also with their flankers. They may not always work (see Ice*Men) but they are always interesting and it’s great to see a brand really give a damn about the quality and artistry of all their fragrances. Personally, I didn’t think that Mugler could top the salted-caramel-goodness of Alien Le Goût de Parfum (released last year), but by jove they’ve gone and proved me wrong.

Alien Essence Absolue is the latest interpretation of Alien and serves as an oriental twist on the original. Created by Dominique Ropion (one of favourite perfumers FYI), who worked on the original as well as creating the Eau de Toilette, Eau Luminescente and Sunessence versions, Essence Absolue is a more intense interpretation that focuses on warm, resinous notes and intense flowers. Mugler describes it as “an intense amber, floral, vanilla perfume [...] a magnetic fragrance that illuminates the skin in a halo of light” – well if “magnetic” partly explains why my nose is currently stuck to my wrist then I’m all for it.

Alien Essence Absolue

Alien Essence Absolue – “A magnetic fragrance that illuminates the skin in a halo of light.”

The Notes

Sambac Jasmine, Heliotope, Orris, Cashmeran Wood, Myrrh, White Amber and Vanilla

How Does it Smell?

Alien Essence Absolue starts with the bright white citrus of Alien Eau de Parfum, except this time they appear to be more mouth-watering, dewy and lively due to a healthy sprinkling of pepper. The opening feels rounder & fuller than the original and it manages to permeate the air around you without being too loud or oppressive.

Now, if you’re familiar with the original Alien you will know that it showcased a rather intense (read: loud) jasmine note. Well, the jasmine isn’t exactly missing in Essence Absolue, but the florals have been intensified rather than amped up meaning that they are more luscious than they are intense. The addition of Heliotrope gives the jasmine an airy, sweet vibe and iris adds a beautifully soft powdery-ness that makes Essence Absolue feel silky smooth.

Perhaps the most striking thing about Essence Absolue is the addition of incense. Incense is an absolutely glorious material than can be dry, cold and austere but in Essence Absolute it is none of these things, instead it is warm, resinous and balsamic, adding to the overall rich and silky quality of the fragrance.

Alien Eau de Parfum makes use of a silky smooth material called cashmeran, and it is still put too good use in Essence Absolue, however instead of being supported by white musks as in the original, Ropion has paired it with an accord of white amber and the best damn vanilla EVER.  Oh my that vanilla, my oh my, that velvety vanilla.

Speaking to Basenotes earlier this year, Thierry Mugler Olfactive Director Pierre Aulus spoke of the fragrance’s use of a vanilla pod absolute; “It has an absolut from the vanilla pod, the outside, which is far less sweet than vanillin, it is more the smell of the pod which has animalic tones to it” [1]. He’s right, as you would expect him to be, the vanilla in Essence Absolue is not sweet or creamy, it is dry and velvety with spicy, resinous facets. It really is superb.

The original Alien Eau de Parfum is loud and diffusive, but it’s never heavy or rich. This version seems to be the opposite, rich, but soft, not loud. I see Alien Essence Absolue as the Queen of the Alien fragrances, it is the richest, most beautiful and most precious incarnation – a real goddess.

If you found Alien, and its subsequent offerings too much, or just not your bag then it would be worth seeking out Essence Absolue, it is very much a polished version of the original that is easier to love without compromising on the quality, artistry and sprit of Mugler’s already-classic original.

Alien Essence Absolue Flacon

Alien Essence Absolue Flacon

The Bottle

Alien Essence Absolue is housed within the familiar jewel-like bottle utilised for all fragrances within the Alien family, however this time the bottle is rounder and the juice is coloured like a “yellow burst of fire”.

The bottle (and juice) have been designed to represent a drop of gold. Thierry Mugler Olfactive Director described the bottle as being “callipyge” which roughly translated means “beautifully shaped buttocks”.

He certainly has a point….

Availability

Alien Essence Absolue is available in 30ml (£52.50) and 60ml (£69) refillable Eau de Parfum Intense. A 60ml refill bottle (£52) and 100ml Body Balm (£22) are also available. It will be exclusive to Selfridges in the UK until September.

Disclaimer

Sample via Thierry Mugler. Images, notes and quotes via press release. [1] basenotes.net.

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46 thoughts on “The Alien Queen – Thierry Mugler Alien Essence Absolue Perfume Review

  1. I really like Angel and I really, really, really like Alien. Almost love Alien. This wonderful review has me wondering if there’s a bottle of Alien Essence Absolue at my local Nordstrom department store, so I can run out and sample it tomorrow. If this truly is Alien perfection, then I must try it very soon.

  2. I never thought I’d say that, but I have to – I want to try this and I want to try this now!!!
    This sounds like my kind of Alien, rich and intense, but not loud and overpowering. You make this sound amazing and for the first time I find myself wondering where the heck I could get a sniff of Alien Essence Absolue (only the core Mugler line is sold in Vienna as far as I know, lol, I have never gone looking for it…).

  3. I have never managed to make up my mind about the original Alien, I may have to resort to the old method of drenching myself in it for a day – that way I will either love it or hate it! This however sounds glorious, and may be timed perfectly for me: I appear to be having a warm florals kinda summer, and I do love vanilla… oh and I think the bottle is cheekily beautiful!

    • Definitely do drench yourself in some Alien, it’s one of those fragrances that suits being over-sprayed.

      Seeing as you are having a warm floral kind of summer then Essence Absolue will probably right up your street :D

  4. I have only ever dismissed this in airports with a single sniff (the original), but your rapturous review has me thirsting to try it. I love that bottle as well.

  5. I think you’ll recruit many new converts to the Mugler cause with this enticing review!

    This sounds like a golden goddess of a scent and you know good vanilla, so this must be great. Put me on the Lemming List!

  6. As an Alien lover, this is a review that essentially had me at …”OK. I am SO lemming this!” *She swoons, she hits the floor, she’s out for the count…* ;-)

  7. thanks for this review! I love Alien and haven’t seen this in person yet, but when I do, I’ll definitely give it a whiff.

    I must ask, did you try the Alien and Angel aquatic fragrances that came out this spring/summer? I’d be curious to hear your take on them as a Mugler lover.

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  11. I smelled Alien Absolue for the first time today and I’m not even kidding, my knees got weak and I wanted to cry. I have not felt a love for a perfume in such a long time, since I first smelled Flower Bomb by Victor & Rolf. I bought it immediately and can’t stop smelling myself. you don’t understand how picky I am with scents. This is so much better than the original Alien in my opinion. the Vanilla and amber are definitely dominant.
    Also, have you smelled the new leather special edition collection of all the Mugler perfumes? Saw them today, they were very nice, esp the men’s Angel. Alien Absolue is still my fav tho.

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  13. I liked Alien, but resisted buying it because it was a little too loud and brassy. I got a sample of the Alien Absolue and I WILL BE BUYING IT. I am about to cry because my tiny vial of tester is now gone………A trip to Macy’s after work may be in order today. This has all the best parts of Alien without the ‘in your face-ness’ of the original. This is a wordly escort compated to the cheap teenage hooker feel of original Alien.

  14. WHO is the model in the Alien Essence Absolue ad campaign??? I have spent the past HOUR searching for answers online & have come up with absolutely (pardon the pun) NOTHING. It’s now starting to drive me a little mental. PS. I am totally head over heels in love with this new fragrance (only recently launched in South Africa). By far the most orgasmic olfactory offering from the Mugler stable to date. x

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