Hermès must win the award for the most consistent style of perfumes within one line. Ever since installing the incomparable Jean-Claude Ellena as their in-house schnoz, each perfume launch has been a variation on the theme of Ellena’s pastel shades and watercolours, evoking both clarity and luxury.
It is for this reason that their latest offering, Jour d’Hermès is so interesting, it manages to perfectly replicate Ellena’s signature style of spacious scent, but it does so bigger, brighter and bolder, almost as if he’s thrown down the watercolours in a moment of madness (read: genius) and opted for full technicolor. Jour d’Hermés is Jean-Claude Ellena writ large.
“From dawn until dusk, a luminous and sensual floral that flourishes.”
Jour, meaning dawn, is a perfume that captures the myrhiad of colours and emotions promised by the prospect of a new day. It is a perfume that seems to have arrived with little fan fair yet the odours that are contained within its rather simple and unpretentious bottle are most definitely worthy of attention.
For this latest outing Hermès and Ellena have opted to not supply notes, instead relying on the simple description quoted above.
How Does it Smell?
The first thing you will notice when you spritz on Jour d’Hermès, and you will spritz it on because it is not to be missed (also because I said so), is just how big it is. A wave of giant flowers, green stems and sticks of the tartest, juiciest rhubarb (a big splash of red) is unleashed recklessly on to the skin. It’s almost cartoon-like in its size, but it never threatens to collapse under its own weight and this is what is so remarkable about Jour, it may be as big as the Empire State but it’s as weightless as a Zeppelin.
As you would expect from Ellena, Jour is more of an impression of a floral bouquet rather than a photorealist reproduction of a vase of flowers. I definitely get hints of gardenia, jasmine and lily of the valley which, along with some of Ellena’s jazzy aroma chemicals I’m sure, blend together to present a pretty portrait of white and blush-tinged flowers that are as dazzling as they are joyous.
Things definitely subdue as Jour heads in to its latter stages but it pretty much maintains a brilliant white radiance throughout. There is more emphasis on the green elements in the base along with facets of warm soil, vanilla and minerals. It’s a perfect compliment to the hope and joy cast by the opening, almost feeling as if the promises of that grand new day are realised in the base, leaving an aura of pure bliss for you to bathe in, from head to toe.
Jour d’Hermès is a reminder that perfume can still be exciting and that just when you think you have a particular house, perfumer or style pegged a new scent can come along to completely subvert your expectations. These fragrances mix innovation and beauty into something that is effortlessly wearable and enjoyable. It’s fragrances like Jour d’Hermès that are the reason why I am a fumenerd.
Jour d’Hermès is available exclusively at Hermès boutiques and online in 50ml (£67) and 85ml (£91) Eau de Parfum, with a 125ml (£89) refill also available. It will launch in department stores in early 2013.
Image 1 and Quote via hermes.com. Image 2 leblog.pasionlujo.com.