Oud is a note that seems to have had a great deal of popularity over the last few years. Most perfume houses have an ‘oud’ in their line-up, in fact many have several – anybody who’s anyone has got one. Despite it’s prolific presence in today’s perfume landscape, it cannot be denied that oud is a wonderfully powerful material, that when used properly can be one of the most beautiful smells known to man.

Oud is the jigsaw piece that helps fuse European and Eastern styles of perfumery together, and whilst the oud that is used in western perfumery is much cleaner (and largely synthetic) than that used in the east, it has coloured the face of perfumery in bright arabian hues and taken us on exotic voyages to faraway lands.

Oud

Oud/Oudh/Aoud/Agarwood is a “dark, resinous heartwood” [1] that forms in infected Aquilaria trees. The infection is due to a specific type of mould, that changes the colour and density of the wood, leaving a strong, dark resin (the oud) in the core.

Due to its rarity and variation in quality and scent profile, oud is a very difficult and expensive ingredient to work with, hence why the majority of oud fragrances use a synthetic substitute.

A cross-section of an infected Aquilaria tree.

Reference Oud Fragrances

These are the fragrances that anyone exploring oud should smell, they are, in my opinion, the best of the bunch as it were:

The Classic Oud
Black Aoud by Montale

Black Aoud is a classic blend of oud and rose, with a good deal of patchouli and leather thrown in for good measure. It is perhaps one of the densest and most rich fragrances I have ever tried and for that reason it really needs a lot of time to unfold and develop on the skin, but It is definitely worth the wait.

The oud in Black Aoud is very much the signature oud of Montale, it is mainly sour and medicinal and it works beautifully with the earthy, dusty quality of the rose. Black Aoud very much feels like a barrage of scent upon first application, and I have to admit I enjoy it most about 10 hours in when everything has settled. With time it loses a lot of the heft that represses the beauty it contains. The rose becomes wonderfully powdery and joins the patchouli and oud in a wonderfully heady blend of eastern mysticism.

Black Aoud is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum with prices ranging from £70-£100*.

The Masculine Oud
M7 Oud Absolu (formerly known as M7) by Yves Saint Laurent

M7, created under the artistic direction of Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, was the fragrance that threw oud in to the mainstream. It pairs a spicy, and yes largely synthetic oud with rich, ripe fruits, vetiver and amber. The effect is almost like an intensely medicinal bubble gum laid over the cosiest of ambers.

I find M7 to be ridiculously masculine and it is my go to ‘neanderthal fragrance’ for those days when I’m feeling particularly manly, something that is a more regular occurrence than you would imagine. M7 is as stylish as it is manly and I’ve always seen it as somewhat of a ladykiller (or mankiller depending on your preference of course) fragrance that lures people in, ready to be ravaged.

M7 Oud Absolu is available in 80ml Eau de Toilette for £58.

The Cosy Oud
White Aoud by Montale

Due to there being so many ouds within the Montale line, it is no surprise that there are some rather surprising interpretations of the note lurking amongst the more ordinary ones. White Aoud is one of these surprising interpretations, it is the “OH MY GOD IT’S SO FLUFFY’ oud. Or in English ‘The creamy, cosy and snuggly oud’.

White Aoud pairs Montale’s signature oud (sour, medicinal) with saffron, white rose, vanilla and sandalwood. I almost gave White Aoud the title of ‘The Delicious Oud’ because of the strong, creamy vanilla but due to the dry edge of the sandalwood it never quite makes it into gourmand territory.

This snuggly little thing (it’s not little by any means, it’s as loud and bombastic as every other Montale) is one of my favourite ouds and is a go to scent during winter. It smells great, emanating its cosy warmth from my winter scarf.

White Aoud is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum, with prices ranging from £70-£100*.

The Barnyard Oud
Al Oudh by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Al Oudh is yet another example of just how amazing Bertrand Duchaufour is (for other examples see L’Artisan’s Vanille Absolument & Traversée du Bosphore and Penhaligon’s Sartorial & Amaranthine). It sits within that category of filthy, animalic perfumes that I like to call ‘barnyard chic’.

This heady blend of spicy, animalic oud, leather, rose and dried fruits is wonderfully filthy and smoky. I find it to be incredibly evocative of the East and out of all of the ouds on the market it feels like the one that you could actually find on a stall in a Middle Eastern bazaar.

For another really good ‘barnyard oud’ I would recommend Oud 27 by Le Labo, which would have been included here if it were a tad more refined.

Al Oudh is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £88.

The Downright Weird Oud
Aoud Lime by Montale

Never has their been a weirder fragrance than Aoud Lime…

The house of Montale has oud fragrances coming out of its ears, and the signature of oud of the house is a sour and medicinal blend. With Aoud Lime, Montale amps up the medicinal facets of the oud by pairing it with golden saffron. The effect is strange, yet beautiful.

Aoud Lime smells like lime, but the startling thing is that there is no lime within the composition, instead the infusion of saffron and oud creates a wonderfully true impression of lime.

Aoud lime is weird, wonderful and totally worth it!

Aoud Lime is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum, with prices ranging from £70-£100*.

The Stylish Oud
Oud Wood by Tom Ford

I have a somewhat turbulent relationship with Tom Ford’s Private Blends. On the most part I think they are all very well crafted and interesting fragrances, but I also think that they are vastly overpriced for what they are. So far there is only one that I would, and have shelled out for – Oud Wood.

Oud Wood epitomises Tom Ford’s classic style and it is a simply beautiful fragrance. The oud in Oud Wood is spicy, woody and almost rubbery. The contrasting notes of tonka, vanilla and pepper make for a fragrance full of style, class and substance, and it’s one fragrance that I would not want to be without.

Oud Wood is part of Tom Ford’s line of Private Blends and is available in 50ml, 100ml and 250ml Eau de Parfum. Prices range from £125-£285.

The Bewitching Oud
Oud by Mona di Orio

Oud is simply one of the most glorious ouds, if not one of the most glorious fragrances available. I could leave it there, because really that is all you need to know, but I feel compelled to say more.

Unlike a lot of other oud fragrances, Oud uses real oud oil, in this case an incredibly expensive one from Laos. The difference between the synthetic ouds and real oud oil is startling, and in Oud the oud oil is put to good use.

Oud is a glorious blend of oud, osmanthus and amber. The oud is incredibly complex, it smells bready, and rather than being animalic I find it to be incredibly human – like the hot breath of another person. The apricot jam note of the osmanthus adds shimmer and sparkle to the oud and the amber gives a lightly cosy feel.

Words will never be able to describe just how beautiful Oud is, It has to be smelled to be believed.

Oud is part of Mona di Orio’s ‘Les Nombres d’Or’ collection and is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £325.

Join the Discussion

Do you love or loathe oud?

What are your reference ouds?

Do you agree with my choices?

Which perfumes do you think should be included in this guide?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below!

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to…

Other installments in the series:

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Tuberose

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Lavender

Disclaimer

[1] wikipedia.com

Image 1 kjanicki-sotd.blogspot.com
Image 2 cafleurbon.com

* Prices converted from USD

“Puredistance M is a masculine that straddles the gender line”

After trying and loving the ethereal Puredistance I and the warm-bosomed Antonia, I thought that the dreaded rule of three’s (as in that a collection of three perfume’s cannot contain three good fragrances) would kick in and I would end up hating Puredistance M, but as usual when it comes to drawing quick conclusions, I was wrong.

I was wrong because Puredistance M is a pretty damn good fragrance and whilst it may not be in the style of perfumes that I would wear, I cannot deny that it is impeccably well made and puts the majority of masculine fragrances on the market to shame. In terms of quality, artistry and just how damn good it smells, Puredistance M is in a class of its own. Oh, and it’s an Extrait too, with a rather decent 25% concentration, which is somewhat of a rarity within the masculine genre.

Puredistance M is currently the only masculine in the line and it takes its inspiration from the classiest and most debonaire of motor vehicles – the Aston Martin, namely the Aston Martin that belongs to a certain James Bond. M was created by Professor of Perfume Roja Dove and is described as “a leather chypre of classic proportions…with an unexpected oriental twist. Sumptuous and complex, noble and sophisticated” [1] Puredistance M is a fragrance that is neither shaken, nor stirred, and just like 007 it is as smooth as can be.

The Notes

Bergamot, Lemon, Rose, Jasmine, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Mosses, Cistus, Vetiver, Patchouli, Vanilla, Leather and Musk [2]

How Does it Smell?

Puredistance M’s opening is all chypre, with wonderfully sour citrus contrasted with rich, oriental spices. One spice that I find quite prominent during the opening is cinnamon, a note which I am having a slight love affair with of late, and it works perfectly with the acerb nature of the bergamot and lemon.

In keeping with the Aston Martin theme there is a good deal of leather in Puredistance M, and rather than opting for sweet leather, Dove has gone for a rather dry and almost harsh leather note. Think of the dry leather in Chanel’s N°19 and you’re on the right track, although Puredistance is not green in the slightest, if it were a colour it would be ‘Chestnut Tan’*.

Rose and jasmine appear in the notes, but their appearance within Puredistance M is actually quite subdued. The mosses and patchouli seem to outweigh the florals slightly, and whilst there is a definite jasmine hue amongst the leather early on, as time goes on it becomes harder and harder to pick out the flowers.

After the oriental heart, Puredistance M comes full circle back into chypre territory with a base of patchouli, mosses, labdanum and vanilla. The base is truly wonderful, and whenever I smell a good chypre base I can’t help but think “they don’t make ‘em like this anymore”, and thankfully Puredistance does.

As much as I enjoy Puredistance M, I can’t help but feel that it is perhaps a bit too debonair for me and I’m not sure that I am man enough to pull it off. When I wear it I picture a man much older than myself, but still in his prime, as if a certain degree of life-experience is required to ‘rock it’ effectively. Maybe it’s a fragrance that I’ll grow into one day, I do still have a lot of living to do after all.

Puredistance M is a masculine that straddles the gender line, it works as an effortlessly cool and glamorous masculine just as well as it does as a kick ass feminine that is reminiscent of the chypres of the good old days. To me it feels like the finely tailored duck feather coat by Alexander McQueen depicted in the first image in this post – a contrast of old school femininity and classic masculine tailoring.

There really is something for everyone in the Puredistance line. I have found my love in Puredistance I, I really think Antonia is something my mother would love and Puredistance M is perfect for my father. It’s a family affair!

The Bottle

All Puredistance perfumes are available in 17.5ml and 100ml flacons. The 17.5ml flacon resembles (a rather posh) test tube.

I find it incredibly handy that each of these Parfum Extraits are presented in a spray bottle, I have to admit that I’m not the biggest fan of dabbing and I wish more brands would follow suit.

A series of accessories are available, including leather cases, a stand and a Swarovski crystal column (pictured and available in clear & silver, clear & gold and black & silver). The packaging is ultra-luxe but it feels, clean simple and pure.

Puredistance M is available in 17.5ml and 100ml Extrait de Parfum. Prices range €165-€490.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of Puredistance M sourced myself.

[1] & [2] puredistance.com
* Chestnut Tan is a shade of Aston Martin leather. 

Image 1 backseatstylers.com (Gold duck feather coat by Alexander McQueen from the book Savage Beauty).
Image 2 & 3 puredistance.com

“Exactly HOW MANY sprays of Poison are you wearing?!”

The European attitude to perfume is very different to that of our American counterparts. Some parts of Europe in particular have a, let me be diplomatic here, shall we say ‘relaxed’ attitude to bathing and perfume can be used to cover up the husky odours of the body that might be missed during said relaxed bathing rituals – think ‘Italian shower’ and you’re on the right track.

Whilst this may be a little of an over exaggeration, because in these modern times generally everybody bathes quite regularly, including myself I hasten to add. Where we definitely are relaxed is in the perfume department. We don’t mind what perfume you wear, when or where you wear it. We also tend to favour the larger, richer perfumes to the fresh, clean one and as long as you’re not deliberately trying to send someone into an Angel-induced coma then you’re fine. Across the pond things seem to be quite different.

This week I was reading an article, about the banning of perfume in the workplace, something that seems to be happening more and more in the US. Now this interested me for two reasons; firstly because I am a perfume-nut and I love my big perfumes, and secondly because I am a Human Resources professional by trade and this sort of thing is a big conundrum and minefield absolute minefield for us HR people.

So it got me to thinking – should perfume be banned in the workplace? Or is this a case of the PC Police taking things one step too far? Can I see my workplace implementing a ‘No-perfume policy’ or designating itself a ‘Perfume Free Zone’ anytime in the near future? The more I started to think, the more I realised that it is in fact, quite a complex issue.

The recent news that the State of New Hampshire attempted to implement a bill that would ban the use of perfume, and scented personal products for those state workers in customer facing roles was surprising to me. The reasons behind the bill are simple; “An increasing number of people with sensitive noses are having severe allergic reactions to strong scents. Symptoms include sudden migraine, fatigue and nausea.” [1] but does that make it right?

I can’t help but think that it’s a case of the government interfering just a little bit too much. Who are they to say what you put on your body? Where is the scientific evidence to support these claims? Where does it stop? A complete ban on fragrance altogether? Of course there is a responsibility to public health, but does perfume present such a huge risk? We’ve been wearing perfumes for thousands of years, and only now do we feel need to start banning it. That really says something about the effect that it has.

My opinion is that you should be able to wear what you like to work, but you should always be respectful of those around you. That means, don’t wear excessive amounts of perfume and don’t spray perfume around those that you know will have an issue with it. It comes down to personal choice and most importantly, consideration for others. Nobody wants to be ‘that guy’ who gases anyone within a 100 metre radius with 10 pumps of Kouros.

I work in an office environment and wear any perfume that I like to work. If a colleague was to say that a particular perfume I wore gave them a headache or made them feel unwell then I wouldn’t wear it again, I am after all, a respectful person, or I like to think I am. But shouldn’t it be my choice whether I wear perfume to work, not my employer’s?

There are of course a number of professions where perfume would not be suitable, for example; the medical profession and any profession that involves working with food.

In professions such as these, it would be reasonable for the employer to have a ‘fragrance free’ policy, because when working with people in a vulnerable position or with food, perfume may not be entirely appropriate

For an employer, and this is where I place my HR cap firmly on my head, this issue brings up an interesting argument in terms of disability – would we consider somebody with a severe allergy or reaction to perfume to have a disability? If so, then under UK law, namely the Equality Act 2010, employers would be required to make ‘reasonable adjustments’ for that person and failure to make these adjustments could mean that the employer is leaving themselves open for claims of disability discrimination.

What exactly would we consider as these reasonable adjustments? A scent-free environment? Or perhaps a lightly scented environment? How exactly would you enforce this policy and is it reasonable to take disciplinary action against people, or even dismiss them for wearing perfume? Of course it all depends on the severity of the problem and as yet I haven’t been able to find any UK case law that suggests that allergies to perfume have been considered as a disability.

In a survey conducted by Asthma UK, 40% of respondents said that things at work exacerbated their asthma, with 14% citing perfume/air fresheners as a reason. This is interesting when compared to the fact that dust (62%), cigarette smoke (38%) and stress (27%) were all seen as stronger triggers for asthma, so are we over-exagerating the issue and does this mean that we should also ban dust and stress from the workplace?

The issue of perfume in the workplace is surprisingly complex and I realise that this post raises more questions than it does answers, but I do feel that it is a hot topic that needs to be discussed. I very much stick by my stance that perfume should not be banned in the workplace, and that we all need to apply a degree of common sense to the situation rather than acting in a purely reactionary manner. What do you think?

Join the Discussion!

What do you think of banning perfume at work?

Do you live/work somewhere where perfume is banned?

Do you wear perfume to work? Do you wear your usual perfumes or do you opt for something lighter?

What do you do if someone at work complains about your perfume?

Disclaimer

[1] myfoxboston.com
[2] asthma.org.uk

Image 1 mama–cita.blogspot.com
Image 2 piercemattiepublicrelations.com
Image 3 theblogfacebookforgot.blogspot.com

Pierre Guillaume – Not just a pretty face!

What a busy boy Pierre Guillame is. Not only is he the man and the exceptionally talented nose behind the über exciting brand Parfumerie Générale, he is also responsible for brands such as Phaedon and Hutième Art. He creates for all three brands whilst managing to look effortlessly handsome. It makes you hate him just a little bit, doesn’t it?

Ok, I’m just being silly, I don’t really hate Pierre Guillaume, in fact it’s quite the opposite, I have great respect for him and his fragrant vision. He has managed to craft himself a distinct style and has very much found his own little niche in the market. With Parfumerie Générale and Huitième Art, Guillaume tinkers with the most ancient and noble of ingredients, interpreting each one in new and surprising ways.

Huitième Art is one Pierre Guillaume’s many projects and is a collection of 9 perfumes “showcasing an all-new ‘plant capture’, an original plant-inspired accord or natural organic ingredient” and with “an emphasis on originality and sophistication”. Each perfume is housed in one of the most fascinating flacons I have ever come across, a part-modern, part-natural ceramic cyclops intended to represent the eye looking to the future, which just so happens to be the exact same direction that M. Guillaume’s nose is pointed.

Ambre Céruléen

“A powdery balm for an airy amber”

The Notes

Opoponax, Fève Tonka and Sandalwood

How Does it Smell?

I’m not usually a massive fan of amber. Don’t get me wrong, I do enjoy a good cosy dose of amber, but it’s just not my favourite style of perfume, perhaps because I haven’t found my amber yet. Or should I say ‘hadn’t found my amber yet’, that was until Ambre Céruléen came into my world.

Ambre Céruléen is a euphorically beautiful amber that has everything a good amber should, and in perfect proportion. Velvety sandalwood, creamy vanilla and a light dusting of spices, namely cinnamon, clove and god-knows-what-else that makes it so utterly fabulous.

A good amber should envelop you and wrap you in it’s warmth. The amber is the olfactory comfort blanket, it defends you from the cold, harsh realities of life and wraps you in a cloud of luxury, safety and love. Ambre Céruléen does all this in such a smooth and effortless way that I can’t help but fall in love with it.

I wonder what the Amber Queen over at Olfactoria’s Travels thinks of this one?

Sucre D’Ebène

“The gentle caress of sweet trade winds”

The Notes

Brown Sugar, Witch Hazel and Benzoin

How Does it Smell?

My first thought upon smelling Sucre D’Ebène was “Wow, this actually smells like burned sugar!” Sucre D’Ebène instantly makes me think for those glorious wisps of caramel, fastidiously constructed into a birds nest and wrapped around the finest of desserts. It is definitely an odd bird, that at times can be very difficult to wrap your head/nose around.

Pierre Guillaume has a real talent for creating surprising gourmand confections that are rooted within deep woods and rich, exotic ingredients. Sucre D’Ebène is no exception, the dark brown sugar sits upon a bed of cosy, fluffy benzoin that makes it feel like a more adult version of candy floss, one that isn’t coloured in pink hues but tones of rather wonderful golden brown.

Like a few fragrances within the Parfumerie Générale line, namely Musc Maori, I’m not entirely sure just how wearable Sucre D’Ebène is. Don’t get me wrong, it does smell wonderful on the skin, and I love to to smell it, I’m just still deliberating as to whether I would want to smell of it. That said, there is definitely something addictive about it that really appeals to my sweet tooth and whilst I’m still making my mind up I am more than happy to keep smelling this confection for grown-ups.

Myrrhiad

“The story of myrrh is as old as that of perfume”

The Notes

Myrrh, Black Tea Absolute, Vanilla and Liqourice

How Does it Smell?

Myrrhiad is the latest addition to the Huitième Art line and is so far the only perfume to be added to the line since its launch. I find it to be quite an unusual take on myrrh, a note that is usually paired with relatively dry, woody materials to amp up its masculine facets. With Myrrhiad, Guillaume takes a different approach and opts to use vanilla to soften and tame this most ancient of notes.

The vanilla itself is very soft, it is quite understated and dry with a wonderfully sweet smoky aura that pairs pretty damn nicely with the myrrh. I especially like how the vanilla isn’t allowed to take over, something that it can so often do, it’s very easy to ‘over-egg the vanilla pudding’ as it were, but thankfully a good deal of vanilla restraint has been exercised here.

To contrast the sweetness of the vanilla, black tea and liquorice have been added. Both of these ingredients add a myriad (no pun intended) of facets – earthy, rooty, herbal and menthol – that keep the vanilla in check and add a good deal of ‘darkness’ that is more than welcome.

Myrrhiad is a very interesting perfume, but like Sucre D’Ebène, it has an unusual toasted-sugar note that I’m not entirely comfortable with in a perfume. That said it is inherently more wearable than the latter and It does smell great. If you’re looking for an unusual take on myrrh then I would highly recommend it.

Availability

Ambre Céruléen, Sucre D’Ebène and Myrrhiad are available in 50ml Eau de Parfum for £88.

Disclaimer

This review is based on samples of Ambre Céruléen and Sucre D’Ebène supplied by Les Senteurs and a sample of Myrrhiad sourced myself.

All quotes and notes via huitiemeart.com

Image 1 cafleurebon.com
Images 2, 3 & 4 luckyscent.com

“The smell of the English countryside in spring time”

L.I.L.Y is the latest fragrance from British fashion designer Stella McCartney. It very much marks a break from tradition for McCartney, whose other fragrances have all be a variation on a theme, namely that of her eponymous debut fragrance ‘Stella’. I love Stella, as far as designer fragrances go it is pretty well done and my sister wears it religiously so I have a strong connection to it, but I am very glad that McCartney is branching out into new fragrant territory with L.I.L.Y.

Where Stella was an ode to rose, L.I.L.Y is, as the name suggests, an ode to the lily of the valley. Lily of the valley is a flower which yields no scented oil yet so evocatively represents the smell of the English countryside in spring time. It’s both beautiful to look at, and to smell, and it represents all that is innocent and virtuous about the world. Lily of the valley is simply one of the world’s most precious of joys.

L.I.L.Y is described as an “evocative scent made up of Stella’s most treasured moments” [1]. Its name stems from her father’s nickname for her mother; ‘Linda I Love You’, and the Lily of the Valley used in the fragrance is reminiscent of her wedding bouquet. For L.I.L.Y, McCartney has aimed to create a perfume that is personal to her, rather than Stella McCartney ‘the brand’. In this world of hyper-focus-grouped perfumes, I can’t help but find the personal touch applied to L.I.L.Y utterly refreshing.

The Notes

Top: Black Truffle and Black Pepper
Heart: Lily of the Valley, Pink Pepper and White Musk
Base: Oak Moss and Patchouli [2]

How Does it Smell?

You don’t really get many lily of the valley, or ‘Muguet’, fragrances anymore. I guess nobody bothers because Diorissimo, even thought it is now a pale version of its former glory, is the only lily of the valley fragrance that anyone needs. Whatever the reason, it’s refreshing to see a mainstream house opt to highlight an under-used flower, and whilst L.I.L.Y is not going to be a classic in the genre, it is very nicely done.

L.I.L.Y opens bright and sharp with a distinct flash of pepper (yes the ‘dreaded pink pepper’, when will the madness end?!) that is rather surprisingly short-lived, but it adds a nice sparkle whilst it does last. The lily of the valley presents itself very early on and it starts out incredibly green, like spring air, and becomes more floral with time.

As the lily of the valley unfurls on the skin, it takes on a rather beguiling saline feel that is somewhat reminiscent of the weird metallic-and-milky-mess of Etat Libre d’Orange’s Sécrétions Magnifiques. But rather than standing in the way of the floral notes, as it does in SM, this saline quality sits just behind the creamy florals and adds a tinge of dirt, like an accidental flash of the thigh, to what is on the most part, a rather squeaky clean composition.

The creamy white florals are underpinned by a rather bog-standard white musk and a subdued does of patchouli. It doesn’t develop all that much, but it does become lighter, airier and more diffusive with time. Once you have smelled L.I.L.Y in Its entirety, it could be very easy to write it off as just a generic, musky-white floral, and I wouldn’t blame you, but closer inspection reveals that it is so much more.

L.I.L.Y is not a true interpretation of the lily of the valley, it’s not a glorious or life-changing soliflore, and it’s not supposed to be, instead it is a rather lovely white floral bouquet and it would be fair to say that it is an essay in ‘pretty simplicity’. Sure, it’s no great shakes and it’s not going to change the face of modern perfumery, but it doesn’t have to.

To put it simply, L.I.L.Y is pretty simple and simply pretty. What more could you want?

The Bottle

“The bottle is reminiscent of the English cut crystal vases and the ornate frames at her (McCartney’s) grandmother’s house.” [3]

As much as I like L.I.L.Y as a fragrance I have to admit that I think the bottle is utterly hideous.

Is it me or does it look like a pineapple? It reminds me of those Stella McCartney bikinis with the pineapple in the crotch. Sorry Stella (and your grandmother) but it’s not a good look.

The metal look frame is also quite cheap & flimsy and takes away from what should be a quality feel.

Availability

L.I.L.Y is available in 30ml, 50ml and 75ml Eau de Parfum. Prices range from £44-£76.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of L.I.L.Y sourced myself.

[1], [2] & [3] escentual.com

Image 1 pixdaus.com
Image 2 donna.tuttogratis.it
Image 3 fragrantica.com

Scented lives is a series of perfume profiles that explores the perfumes and scents that have been a part of people’s lives. I believe that the perfumes we wear are the individual threads that help build the tapestry of our lives. They speak huge volumes about our character and help us form memories of times, people and places.

The series starts with the profiles of my family, friends and those that are special to me. Ir will then branch out to others with interesting scented lives. As I said in the last profile, if you are interested in taking part in the series, you can get in touch via the Contact Form or you can send me an e-mail on thecandyperfumeboy@gmail.com.

How it Works

Each subject is asked to pick five perfumes (ones that they have worn) that have played a significant part in their lives. They will then be asked to give reasons their choices and explain what their associations with those scents may be. The series aims to use perfume as markers for significant points in the subject’s life, whether happy or sad, and to help them unleash their olfactory memories.

Previous Scented Lives

Part 1: Jane Bryant (My Mother)

Granny and I Strike a Pose…

About Pamela

Pamela, my grandmother, or Obi Wan (Obi Wan as in OB1 = Old Bag One) as I like to call her, lives in the rather posh village of Aspley Guise. She has asked me to tell you all, that despite living in a posh village, she herself is not posh, but I would have to disagree.

Currently Pamela, who is grandmother to four and soon-to-be great grandmother to one, is a retiree enjoying her non-working life, in which she spends most of her time lunching with friends and drinking the odd glass of wine. I suppose you would call her ‘a lady what lunches’.

Pamela’s scented life is certainly a varied one, and although I am, of course, slightly biased, I have to say that she has very good taste. As well as the five perfumes she has chosen to talk about here, the world’s coolest granny has also rocked some seriously decent ‘fumes in her time, such as; Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew, Guerlain’s Shalimar, Prada’s Infusion d’Iris and Clarins’ Eau Dynamisante.

The five perfumes Pamela has chosen are:

Coty L’Aimant

This is the first perfume that I remember wearing, I wore it a lot during my teenage years. I always remember it as being very glamorous and I felt very grown-up when I wore it. Thinking about it now, it’s not a perfume that I would even consider wearing anymore, perhaps because I am now much older, and my tastes have progressed dramatically since then.

The Candy Perfume Boy: I have never had the chance to smell L’Aimant, but looking at the notes it sounds like a wonderful aldehydic floral in the grand old style. I think it’s interesting that you should like this style of perfume, because it’s also a style that mother and I both enjoy. It seems that you have passed your tastes on to us and it feels good to be part of that scented heritage.

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

Aromatics Elixir was my ‘going out’ perfume for a very long time, and like L’Aimant, I may not be so keen on it now, but I did really love it back then and I could be tempted to try it again. I always thought that Aromatics Elixir was very unusual and I don’t think I’ve ever worn anything remotely similar since. It will always remind me of many evenings out with my friends and family.

The Candy Perfume Boy: Ahh Aromatics Elixir! It’s such a wonderful perfume, I’m not surprised to see it on your list! I would say that it is similar to some of the other heavier perfumes you have worn in your time, specifically Youth Dew and Shalimar. I think you should definitely revisit it, maybe it would work for you on your many lunches!

Ô de Lancôme by Lancôme

Ô de Lancôme is the opposite to Aromatics Elixir because I reserved it mainly for day-wear. I loved how clean and fresh it is and I used to wear it a lot for work because it was bright and energising without being intrusive or loud. I wore this one up until a few years ago, until I replaced it with a similar scent (Eau Dynamisante).

The Candy Perfume Boy: This is the perfume that I have the strongest association of you with. I always remember you wearing it when you would babysit us or take us out, back when we were kids.

Reflection Woman by Amouage

My daughter (CPB: my aunt) brought this back from Oman for me as a gift. I reserve it only for the most special of occasions and I always think of her when I wear it. I also like to wear it in a crisis, with the hope that it will bring me luck. It’s a perfume that I would never have thought of buying myself because it is so expensive, but also because I don’t think I would have come across it. I treasure it because it’s a little piece of luxury that I hope will see me out…

The Candy Perfume Boy: Amouage is one of my favourite perfume houses. Their creations are so opulent and beautiful and I’m really glad that you have been able to experience the luxury that they offer. Reflection is a lovely watercolour-floral that really suits you and I’d suggest that you try a few other Amouage’s – Honour Woman and Ubar in particular, which I think would really suit you.

Guerlain Insolence

You bought this for me as a Christmas present one year and it brings back many happy memories of you Thomas, because I love you so much! I find it to be a very versatile perfume that I can wear during the day or during the evening. Unfortunately, my bottle is running out so I am treasuring the last few drops before it is completely empty.

The Candy Perfume Boy: Aw shucks granny! This is why you are THE coolest grandma on Earth! Insolence is just so unashamedly girly and more than just a little bit trashy, yet you pull it off with great class and poise.

Is scent important to you?

Yes it is, I’d never leave the house without perfume. I like to smell nice and it makes me feel good.

What are your favourite smells?

The smell of grass after the rain
Roses
Newly bathed babies
The smell of onions cooking
Baking cakes

What was your first experience of perfume?

Back when I was a child perfume wasn’t as prevalent, though I do remember that my mother always smelled nice. When I was about 11, I remember an aunt gifting me Yardley’s Lavender Water and I think that was the first perfume I tried, it felt so luxurious at the time.

Is there a perfume that reminds you of another person?

Before your grandpa died, he used to wear Kouros (Yves Saint Laurent). I bought it for him as a gift and it became the only scent that he ever wore.

If you could choose only one perfume, a ‘desert island’ perfume if you will, what would it be?

I would choose Insolence.

Join the Discussion!

Are you familiar with any of Pamela’s choices?

Do you have a signature scent, or a scent that defines you?

What scents do you think will remind people of you?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below!

Disclaimer

Image 1 theneotraditionalist.com
Image 2 My Own

The appointment of Olympic sprinter Oscar Pistorius as the new face of Mugler’s flagship masculine fragrance A*Men last year marked a new chapter in the brand’s superhero saga. Pistorious plays the part of the ‘Bionic Fawn’ and he perfectly embodies the Muglerian style of high-energy futurism taken to the limit.

Thierry Mugler is known for bold statements and the use of a Paralympian, who just happens to be the hottest name in sport right now, is an encouraging display of diversity from a major brand. If only others would follow suit! Pistorius is an inspiring person and an inspired choice for the brand. He very much deserves his place alongside the likes of Jerry Hall, Eva Mendes and Naomi Watts as a citizen of Planet Mugler.

For 2012, the year of the London Olympic Games, Pistorius reprises his role of the Mugler man for the brand’s latest fragrance ‘A*Men Pure Shot’. A*Men Pure Shot, created by Jacques Huclier, is the latest limited edition flanker of the original A*Men which was released in 1996. It follows Pure Coffee, Pure Malt, Pure Havane and A*Men Le Goût de Parfum in the A*Men series, and it’s fair to say that it is the most unique and surprising incarnation of A*Men so far.

Inspired by Oscar Pistorious, Mugler’s “modern day hero”, Pure Shot is Mugler’s entry into the plethora of Olympic-themed sport fragrances that we’re going to see this year. But as we know, Mugler does things a little bit differently and has to be given Kudos for not including ‘sport’ in the name, and for actually creating a sport-themed fragrance that doesn’t smell bland or cheap. Mugler describes Pure Shot as “a performance booster for seekers of strong, inspiring scents”.

Oscar Pistorius for A*Men

The Notes

Top: Mint and Juniper Berries
Heart: White Pepper and Cardamom
Base: Sequoia and Patchouli

How Does it Smell?

I was lucky enough to be invited to the Press Launch of A*Men Pure Shot on Tuesday for an ‘Olympic Performance Breakfast’ hosted by Oscar Pistorius and the Thierry Mugler team. For me, as a self-proclaimed Mugler Fan Boy, this was a pretty awesome experience and it was great to meet the incredibly passionate creative team behind the brand as well as Oscar, who is as charming (and handsome) as you would expect. It also allowed me to gain a great understanding of the inspiration behind this exciting new fragrance.

A*Men Pure Shot is based around three accords – Boost, Adrenaline and Strength. It opens with ‘Boost’, a bracing accord of mint (a note used in the original) and juniper. A good mint note in a fragrance is hard to find, but when it’s done well (a la Geranium Pour Monsieur, Guerlain Homme and Heeley’s Menthe Fraiche) it can be really wonderful. The mint in Pure Shot is fresh, ice-cold and green with a decent, but in absolutely no way overbearing, amount of menthol. The juniper adds adds a nice herbal touch to the opening, but it never smells anything remotely likely gin, thanks to the accompaniment of some shimmering citrus fruits.

The heart, or ‘Adrenalin’ accord is a soft blend of spices, namely white pepper and cardamom. What I really like about the spices in the heart is that they manage to be zingy and spicy yet cold and icy. This “spicy injection” as it is called (or “spicy discharge” as Mugler’s Olfactive Director, Pierre Aulus, wanted to call it) gives Pure Shot a real sense of energy and speed, as if it’s ready to sprint off the starting block at any moment.

One of the best parts of the original A*Men was its rich base, and it’s great to see that Pure Shot, which can quite easily be described as fresh, still manages to maintain a great deal of that signature base accord that really makes A*Men so great. The base is called the ‘Strength’ accord, and takes its name from the olfactory brawn that is rich patchouli and spicy sequoia wood. This duo of strong materials smells great, the patchouli is like warm earth and when mixed with the spicy sequoia (a brief nod to Mugler’s discontinued B*Men) gives the impression of the sweaty, masculine skin of an athlete. Underneath all of that masculine energy is a soft, yet dry vanilla that rounds the whole thing off rather nicely.

A*Men Pure Shot is the most dramatically different of the A*Men ‘Pure’ series, it is a thousand times lighter and easier to stomach than the original. It actively emphasises A*Men’s fresher, lighter aspects whilst retaining its signature – it is still recognisably A*Men, there are still accents of coffee and chocolate, however they are much more subdued. When I say it’s light, I should make it clear that it is light by Mugler standards, which means it still has a heck of a lot of presence and as you would expect the longevity is impressive. That said, it doesn’t have as much oomph as I would like, especially after the bracing opening dies down, but that’s just a minor niggle in an overall solid offering.

A*Men Pure Shot is the summer version of A*Men that Mugler has attempted before (see Ice*Men), but never seemed to be able to get right. It is fresh and sporty, two words that usually spell disaster for a modern masculine, but it’s sport done the Mugler way (there is nothing ‘aquatic’ here), which means that it is completely unique and unlike a lot of the other Mugler fragrances it is effortlessly wearable. Here’s hoping that they have the good sense to make it a permanent addition to the collection.

The Bottle

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again – Mugler excels when it comes to bottle design.

For Pure Shot the usual A*Men bottle is dressed in glossy white rubber and Mugler’s signature star is coloured in a beautiful shade of turquoise.

The shade of the star and the almost clinical quality of the rubber hints at the fresh, invigorating juice that it contains.

Availability

A*Men Pure Shot will be released in June 2012 and will be available in 100ml Eau de Toillette for £48.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of A*Men Pure Shot provided by Thierry Mugler.

All Images and quotes via Thierry Mugler.

“There’s nothing that I enjoy more than a trip to Planet Mugler”

It’s no secret that I am pretty much THE Thierry Mugler Fan Boy and there’s nothing that I enjoy more than a trip to Planet Mugler, but would you believe there was a time, many Mugler moons ago, when I really didn’t like the Thierry Mugler perfumes? I don’t think I have ever been more appalled by two perfumes in my entire life than when I tried both Angel and A*Men for the very first time. To call them an ‘assault on the senses’ would be a dramatic understatement. But as you know, tastes change and I kept coming back to them. There was just something alluring about this ‘assault’ that I couldn’t quite put my finger on, and it wasn’t long before I ended up buying my first bottles of Angel and A*men. That’s when my Muglerian-obsession started.

A*Men, or Angel Men as it is often referred to, was Thierry Mugler’s first, and currently the brand’s only, masculine fragrance. Released in 1996, it was created to be a masculine interpretation of the already-quite-masculine Angel, released four years previously. With A*Men, Mugler was inspired by the comic book superheroes of his childhood, and in particular his favourite hero ‘The Silver Surfer’.

Since its release A*Men has become somewhat of a cult fragrance, and has spawned a number of pretty decent flankers including; A*Men Pure Coffee, A*Men Pure Malt, A*Men Pure Havane, A*Men Le Goüt du Parfum and A*Men Pure Shot (to be reviewed tomorrow). Does A*Men deserve cult status? Absolutely! There is nothing else quite like it around, and love it or hate it, you cannot deny just how innovative and unique it is.

“A*Men is a scent of contrasts. A Play between metal and skin, between power and sensitivity.” [1]

The Notes

Top: Bergamot, Helonial, Lavender and Peppermint
Heart: Coffee Bean, Tar and Patchouli
Base: Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Caramel, Chocolate and Musk [2]

How Does it Smell?

Looking at the above list of notes you could be forgiven for thinking; “Lavender? Peppermint? Coffee? Vanilla? Chocolate? Patchouli? TAR? How the heck does that all fit together?!” But remember, this is Thierry Mugler we are talking about, it may be unusual, it may even be slightly terrifying, but ultimately, you know that it’s going to work.

A*Men opens with a cacophony of ingredients, it is loud and proud to say the least. The first thing I pick out is the bergamot, the most bright and sparkling of citrus fruits that adds a real element of effervescence over A*Men’s deep, rich heart and base. Next to the bergamot lies the distinct aromas of lavender and peppermint, both of which share a herbal, almost camphorous facet that plays nicely with the bergamot.

As the deep and rich notes come through it becomes very clear that A*Men is a pure gourmand. Like Angel, A*Men’s central accord is based around the pairing of foody notes such as chocolate, caramel and vanilla with a great big stonking dose of patchouli. The patchouli, along with the burned rubber notes of the tar, acts as a strong contrast to the huge load of sweetness that emanates from the foody notes as well as adding a slight earthiness and amping up those camphorous aspects of the mint and lavender. It is very difficult to describe just how good this contrast is!

The only downside to A*Men and its juxtaposition of sugar and patchouli is that it is an undeniably heavy fragrance. When sprayed liberally it’s quite easy to asphyxiate underneath A*Men’s colossal sillage, but when used sparingly (and I’m talking one or two sprays here) it really is heavenly, and it lasts, and lasts, and lasts!

Another thing that A*Men shares with Angel is an amazing dry down. Once the patchouli and tar has dried down to nothing more than a mere hint of their former glory, you are left with a wonderfully creamy, sweet base of vanilla, chocolate and caramel, it is simply delicious and is by far my favourite part of A*Men. At this point you start to smell almost good enough to eat. Almost.

A*Men is a dramatic, showy fragrance that is the perfect counterpart to the ‘Olfactory-Drag-Queen’ that is Angel. It also perfectly epitomises all that is Mugler and for that reason it may not be the first fragrance you would pick out for those more serious of occasions, but for everything else it is simply perfect and I would go as far as saying that it is one of the greatest masculine fragrances of modern times.

The Bottle

Just like its sister perfume Angel, both of A*Men’s flacons are centred around Mugler’s signature blue star. This time however, the theme is very much more masculine and less theatrical.

A*Men is available in two bottles – a refillable, silver metal flask and a black rubber flask. The metal flask is refillable and feels like a more luxe version of the rubber flask, which is ideal for carrying in your bag.

Mugler really excels when it comes to bottle design and the A*Men bottle is no exception. The bottle sits comfortably in your hand and its ergonomic design seems perfectly suited for the active man.

For A*Men’s flankers the bottle and star have been dressed in various shades and colours, from bottles of deep brown to stark white and with golden to hot red stars.

Availability

A*Men is available in 50ml (Rubber Flask) and 100ml (Refillable Metal Flask) Eau de Toilette. Prices range from £35-£64. Matching body products, including Aftershave, Body Shampoo and Spray or Stick Deodorants are also available.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of A*Men provided by Thierry Mugler.

[1] Thierry Mugler Press Material
[2] basenotes.net 

Image 1 betweenraindrops.com
Image 2 scent-sation.co.uk
Image 3 netparfum.sk
Image 4 johnlewis.co.uk 

There are currently 8 perfumes in the line, well 7 if you you decide not to count ‘Not a Perfume’, which I’m not, because it isn’t a perfume and it gets on my nerves. Anyways, Romantina was released last year and is Juliette Has a Gun’s latest perfume. With Romantina, Ricci adds something new to the line – its very first white floral, that at first seems quite out of place amongst the mixed bag of misfit characters that hang around with Juliette and her Gun.

Romantina (I love that name) is described as “an ode to insouciance” [1] and is based on a modern love story. Like the other perfumes in the line, Romantina has a strong character, but rather than being a bad-ass bitch, it exudes a confident innocence that if fallen for, can prove much more deadly. When I received my sample set I immediately reached for Romantina, I am a white floral lover after all, and whilst it may be an ode to insouciance, my feelings for it certainly aren’t indifferent.

“The story is a love story: it’s about a young woman visiting Rome. She falls madly in love with a local guy, but leaves within 24 hours so that the love story stays untouched.” [2]

The Notes

Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Iris, Osmanthus, Vetiver and Vanilla [3]

How Does it Smell?

Romantina’s top notes are full of orange blossom, orange blossom and more orange blossom. I find it to be quite a soft version of one of perfumery’s most ubiquitous flowers, it’s got a good balance of milky flowers and indolic petals that frankly smells great. On top of the orange blossom there are touches of citrus and something peppery, but the overall impression of the opening is very floral.

White flowers can either be innocent of filthy, it depends on just how much of their true indolic nature is allowed to shine through. In Romantina the flowers err on the side of innocence but that’s not to say that Romantina is some kind of wallflower, not at all, there is a stripped-down essence to them that suggests that Romantina isn’t averse to showing her naked self.

The white florals intensify with time and the rose, lily and jasmine become much more prominent as we progress into Romantina’s heart. These florals are joined by a strong white musk which really intensifies Romantina’s milky quality, it adds a beautiful smoothness that makes for a wonderful velvety texture. I have learned to love white musk, Puredistance I taught me that a good quality musk can really add that extra something to a fragrance, and when it’s done right the results can be nothing short of spectacular.

Despite the fact the musk is almost clinical in its cleanliness, Romantina isn’t short of a dirty aspect or two and she’s not as innocent as she may seem. As it dries down a strong patchouli note becomes more and more noticeable until you are confronted with a stark contrast between milky/musky white floral and earthy patchouli with a hint of vetiver. It’s a good contrast, but I think that the dirtiness doesn’t quite get to come through as much as it should and it feels like a little bit more of the heavy stuff would have allowed for a greater balance.

As far as white florals go, Romantina isn’t bad at all, it perhaps places too much emphasis on the musk for my tastes and I’d have liked them to amp up the florals more to allow for some of that dirty raunch to come through. If I were to compare it to another perfume, I would say that Romantina is quite similar to Dior’s Pure Poison, although it lacks the oomph and the ability to defeat an entire army with one spray. That said, Romantina is perfectly lovely, I’m just not sure it’s quite lovely enough to convince me to part with £59, especially when there a better white florals out there and also whilst I have my eye on a bottle of another Juliette Has a Gun fragrance – Calamity J.

The Bottle

Romantina is housed in Juliette Has a Gun’s signature bottle, and this time the bottle is coloured in a very soft beige.

I adore the simplicity of the Juliette Has a Gun bottles, and despite the fact that they are all coloured differently, there is still a degree of uniformity to them that makes them look very good together.

The only problem is that they are undeniably girly…

Availability 

Romantina is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum. Prices range from £59-£79.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of Romantina sourced myself.

[1] & [3] juliettehasagun.com
[2] fragrantica.com 

Image 1 & 2 newsonbeauty.net
Image 3 leiweb.it 

Eau Noire – My Latest ‘Eau My God’ Moment

The best thing about sharing samples with other perfumistas is that every now and then you will receive one that stops you dead in your tracks and makes you call out to the heavens. I like to call this moment the ‘Eau My God’ moment – that moment where you are literally blown away by the smell wafting out of the sample vial. My most recent, and probably my strongest ‘Eau My God’ moment happened only last week.

Following my Guide to Lavender, the lovely of Tara from Olfactoria’s Travels insisted that she send me a sample of Eau Noire because she thought it might be something I would like. Well, I think we can safely say that Tara knows her stuff because I absolutely love Eau Noire, so much in fact that my love for it is currently bordering on full-blown obsession.

Eau Noire was released in 2004 (I’m late to the party as always) and started out as part of a trio of exclusive Dior Homme colognes, it was created by the über-talented Francis Kurkdijan (one of my favourite perfumers no less) and now sits within Dior’s ‘La Collection Privée’. Dior describe Eau Noire as “an elegant gala spirit in an intense evening fragrance” [1], and if any fragrance screams ‘evening’ it’s Eau Noire. This dark, brooding beauty wears a coat of emerald green and bewitches you with a sense of intrigue, mystery and danger.

The Notes

White Thyme, Lavender, Liquorice, Vanilla Bourbon and Cedar [2]

How Does it Smell?

The first blast of Eau Noire is somewhat of a baptism of fire, there seems to be a heck of a lot going on; lavender, liquorice, curry and vanilla all whirl round you in a swirling whirlwind of scented goodness. I find it to be a totally joyful experience, and unlike anything else that has come into contact with my nostrils.

Things fall into place pretty quickly and the top notes are very much about lavender and liquorice, two aromas that are very much intertwined. Each brings out the dark anisic, herbal, and sugary qualities of the other and the overall vibe is neither floral nor gourmand, it sits somewhere comfortably between.

Possibly the most striking aspect of Eau Noire is the HUGE amount of imortelle within the heart. It’s kind of like the elephant in the room, you can’t help but notice it, but whether you wish to talk about it depends entirely on how you feel. Personally I love imortelle, it is perhaps one of the most complex and pleasing smells around, it smells like sweet maple syrup, burned sugar and curry. Much to my pleasure, Eau Noire seems to showcase each and every one of the imortelle flower’s wonderful facets in perfect proportion.

The maple and curry spices of the imortelle are a perfect fit with the lavender and liquorice, and whilst its main components are all rather weighty materials Eau Noire never feels heavy, intrusive or overbearing, it’s actually very chic in a masculine kind of way (it is of course suitable for the ladies too). Eau Noire has a very french attitude, it knows that it won’t be to everybody’s taste, but it doesn’t care, it thinks it smells great and that’s all that matters.

Finally, after many hours of wowing the senses, Eau Noire settles on a base of warm spices and a wonderfully creamy vanilla. I keep trying to think whether I have smelled a fragrance as damn good as this recently, and I really don’t think I have! Eau Noire is everything that a good fragrance should be; distinct, unusual, well proportioned and exceptionally blended, beautiful and of obscenely high quality. Bravo Dior!

Availability 

Eau Noire is part of La Collection Privée Christian Dior and is available in 450ml, 250ml and 125ml Eau de Parfum. Prices start at £120.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of Eau Noire generously provided by Tara of Olfactoria’s Travels.

Image 1 jaime-ellicson.blogspot.com

[1] & [2] Dior.com