There is no subject in the world of perfume more likely to encourage a collective sigh than reformulations. Often one will hear cries of how the classics have been ruined by ever increasing regulations and the tightening of purse strings of brands who do not respect their heritage, and I don’t disagree. But it’s not all bad, and IFRA regulations are encouraging perfumers to be more creative with the way they make perfumes. Not to mention the fact that we’ve also seen some scents brought back from the verge of death in new formulations – fragrances such as Guerlain’s legendary Mitsouko, for example.
For my Escentual column last week (I’m a tad late putting it up here, apologies) I’ve continued the journey of my A-Z of perfume with the latest stop at ‘R’, which of course, stands for ‘Reformulation’. In the piece, I take a look at the reasons behind formula changes, from restrictions to regulations, as well as some of the revelations that the subject has to offer. So, if you’re in the mood to have a peek into the secret world of reformulation, please click here to head on over to Escentual.
In life there are only two things that are certain; death and change. Both of these certainties are also rife within the perfume industry, with ever-tightening restrictions on ingredients and brand cost-cutting leading either to the demise or the change of some of the world’s most beloved perfumes.
Most of the time perfume reformulations are cloak and dagger affairs, with brands swearing that “absolutely nothing has happened to your beloved Mitsouko, so please stop with your questions, or else…” But this isn’t the case with the new Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme, which the brand are fully admitting has been subjected to some “fine tuning”. Well, one can’t help but admire their honesty!
“Warm and voluptuous and a touch of creamy sweetness, this fragrance is for a woman who is compelling and sensual. It is made up of contrasts, an exuberance of sinuous details that strike the balance between strength and gentleness. Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme for women is not afraid to face any challenge, and does so with a strong sense of self and a fierce determination.”
The re-orchestrated Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme is described as having an “innately soft yet seductive character” and I would say that it definitely leans more to the soft side of things rather than the seductive. This may lead to some disappointment for long-term lovers of the original, which I’m led to believe was a bit of a floral-bomb. My advice? Stock up while you can…