It’s Fume Chat, it’s Fume Chat, here we go! That’s right, folks, a brand new episode of Fume Chat is ready for you to download and enjoy. Our latest is a companion episode to Episode 16 (Molecule Mania) and this time we’re talking about the positives and negatives of natural perfumery. What makes it so tricky and why can natural perfumes sometimes come off smelling a little bit flat? And why do Nick and I find it a bit ‘meh’ overall? Find out in this latest episode of Fume Chat, in which we will sniff some fabulous natural stuff.
Dad’s of the world, Father’s Day is your day and as you know, it’s the day where you can be spoiled by your loved ones as thanks for all of the important things you do. But what if you took some time to spoil yourself? Wouldn’t that be a pretty neat idea? I think so! In this post I’ve put together a list of five handsomely scented things that you can gift to yourself on 18 June to say thank you to you, for being a straight-up baller day in, day out. So instead of relying on your loved ones to treat you this Father’s Day, why not treat yo’self instead?
To say that the launch of a new pillar fragrance from MUGLER is an event is quite the understatement. Since 1992 the brand has only launched a handful of fragrances (excluding their fabulous flankers, of course) and unlike many other fragrance houses, MUGLER takes their time to develop and nurture their pillars. So with so few big launches a new one from MUGLER is hotly anticipated and easily makes for the perfume event of the year! MUGLER’S last pillar fragrance was Womanity, which launched way back in 2010 and whilst it wasn’t a commercial success, it was a daring fragrance who’s sweet/savoury-marine/biscuity signature trickled down through mainstream perfumery into the likes of Calvin Klein’s Reveal and Paco Rabanne’s Olympēa.
Seven years later and MUGLER are just about to launch their fourth pillar: AURA. Like ANGEL and ALIEN, and A*MEN before it, AURA plays on Mr Mugler’s supersition, bearing the letter ‘A’ to carry the brand’s theme of addiction into the next phase. AURA was created by a dream team of perfumers; Daphné Bugey, Marie Salamagne, Amandine Marie and Jean-Christophe Hérault, and it presents an oriental twist on the green genre, reinventing it and creating an olfactory shock.
The concept behind AURA is “botanical meets animal”. It celebrates the intuitive instinct that MUGLER describes as being innately feminine in nature. The composition consists of three hearts which showcase overdoses of rhubarb leaf and a new Firmenich material called ‘Tiger Liana’. With AURA, MUGLER has sought to innovate, working closely with Firmenich to exclusively use Tiger Liana along with another material called Wolfwood – all of which comes together to create a magic aura and the next chapter in MUGLER’S extra-terrestrial odyssey.
We’re back again with another battle of the bottles and this time the theme is one close to Thomas’ & Nick’s heart: roses. That’s right, we’re battling our favourite rose perfumes with a wonderful selection of rosy goodness. Our judge this week is the iconic Josephine Fairley, journalist and co-founder of The Perfume Society, who moderates the battle with panache and brings her own rather surprising rose perfume to the table. So put on your rose-tinted specs and get ready for The War of the Roses!
This review has to start with a big fat disclaimer. I am good friends with Liz Moores, the founder and perfumer behind Papillon Artisan Perfumes and I was involved in creating the promotional shots for the fragrance we are talking about today. For that reason one could say that this is not an entirely unbiased review and it probably isn’t. But please note that if Dryad wasn’t my cup of tea, or of interest, I would simply have not written about it. Luckily for all of us scent lovers, it’s quite lovely.
So please approach this as a quick review of a perfume I’ve become very familiar over the last few months and one that I could never approach from an objective standpoint because I have spent so much time with it, trying to understand and visualise its character.
If you’ve been following Liz on social media you’ll know that she’s based in the New Forest, literally right in the forest itself. She is surrounded by nature and the perfumes she creates absorb her environment, providing inspiration. For Dryad, her latest fragrance, the forest is Liz’s muse. Liz’s daughter, Jasmine has written a beautiful poem inspired by Dryad, and it’s the following few lines that sum the perfume up for me and led to the inspiration for Dryad’s visual adventure:
“My body is swelling with the oak’s root and seed
Our veins and our vines weave together with ease,
And as your chatter dispels at the shake of our leaves,
You set your ear to our chest, to hear the whisper of trees.
We rise not in your throat, nor your mouth, nor your teeth.
But we streak coloured streams set to dazzle.”
– Jasmine Moores