Brioni is a brand known for effortless Roman chic and elegant tailoring. It has a certain ease to it – you know, that simple, stylish quality that Italian men just have? That’s Brioni. The brand has has a number of fragrances over the years (all discontinued) and for 2021 they are launching a new signature fragrance: Brioni Eau de Parfum. To create this new signature, Brioni partnered with the Lalique group and worked with Robertet perfumer Michel Almairac (who has his own brand Parle Moi de Parfum), who pieced together a perfume with “few raw materials“. The result is a simple and elegant perfume that feels perfectly on brand.
I’m going to start this review by telling you that Brioni Eau de Parfum, had absolutely no right being this good. Yes, I know that’s a massive spoiler for how this review is going to go, but hey, I can’t always keep you hooked on suspense can I? So often, mainstream masculine fragrances are cheap, dull, derivative, or all of the above, which leads one to approach something like Brioni without much excitement, but let’s just say now that it is absolutely none of those things – in fact, I’d say it was luxurious, satisfying and stylish, and definitely a cut above its contemporaries.
Up until very recently, Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection came under the category of things that I had sniffed in passing but had never paid too much attention to. Quite unfairly, I might add. A few weeks ago my friends at Escentual sent me some samples of the line to try and I must admit that I was really impressed with the quality and diversity of fragrances within the collection. Smelling them really does take one away to the sights, smells and sounds of the mediterranean.
For my column this week, I have reviewed each of the six fragrances in the Blu Mediterraneo collection, including the brand new addition – a bracing take on the note of Sardinian juniper entitled ‘Ginepro di Sardegna‘. So if you fancy a little olfactory trip to the seas, skies and smellscapes of Italy then please click here to head on over to Escentual to discover Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo. If you tried the perfumes, don’t forget to let me know your thoughts!
What exactly is the point of watermelon? It has always seemed to me to be the the most pointless of fruits because it smells and tastes of practically nothing. I’d go as far as saying that it is the worst fruit, along with grapefruit, which is also horrid due to its mouth-screwingly bitter taste. It is my impassioned hatred for watermelon that made Amorosa, the latest fragrance from Ruth Mastenbroek, such a surprise.
Ruth Mastenbroek is a British perfumer, and former President of the British Society of Perfumers, who has created perfumes for a number of niche lines, including Jo Malone, before deciding to go it alone and start her own brand. So far her line consists of two fragrances; RM Eau de Parfum and Amorosa. Ruth’s philosophy is “to create fragrances that are unique, luxurious and distinctive” , and if Amorosa is anything to go by, that is exactly what she does.
Amorosa is inspired by Italy, “its mountains, its clear turquoise skies”  and is described as “the seductive scent of a woman in love with life.”  It is a fascinating modern chypre that is a unique take on the genre. Not only does it showcase a beautiful watermelon note it does so in an interesting and new way. In an industry where “new” can be an alien concept, this is something absolutely worth celebrating.