Woodland Fantasy – TOM FORD Private Blend Vert des Bois Perfume Review

2016-08-20 17.25.38

Woodland Fantasy

Green fragrances are my least favourite, I’m just going to come right out and say it. They so often feel harsh and demanding, not to mention the fact that many of the greats now feel very dated, relying on aldehydes and galbanum (notes du jour of the ’80s) to create a style that is distinct, yes, but definitely out of line with current trends. So yes, green fragrances, bar a few notable exceptions (see Amazingreen & Panorama) are not for me and judging by their absence from the department store shelves, I’m not the only one to feel this way.

But green is making a comeback at the hands of one of perfumery’s titans. That’s right, TOM FORD is bringing back ‘green’. The leading man of fashion and fragrance is reviving one of perfumery’s most out of favour genres – one that permeated the designer arena throughout the ’70s and ’80s, but now seems decidedly absent. But of course, Mr Ford’s idea of green is inspired by the classics, but does not replicate them. Instead, with Les Extraits Vert, the newly-launched sub-section of green fragrances within his Private Blend Collection, Ford adds his contemporary twist, making this tired genre something exciting and new.

Les Extraits Vert consists of four fragrances; Vert Boheme, Vert d’Encens, Vert de Fleur and Vert des Bois, each of which subverts the green genre rather successfully. Vert des Bois, the subject of this review feels like the most ‘TOM FORD’ of the bunch, offering up smoke, leather and greenery in an aesthetic that is masculine and classy. The brand uses words such as ‘expressive’ and ‘provocative’ to describe Vert des Bois and to an extent, I can see why. Vert des Bois is provocative because it challenges one’s notions of what a green fragrance can be and it certainly makes for a verdant experience unlike any other.

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It’s Here: Fume Chat the Perfumed Podcast

Fume Chat - The Perfumed Podcast

Fume Chat – The Perfumed Podcast

On Monday I teased you all with the hint of a brand new project that Nick Gilbert and I had embarked upon. Well now, after six months of planning, I can reveal to you that the project in question is our very own perfumed podcast! That’s right, launching today is Episode One of ‘Fume Chat’, a fortnightly podcast dedicated to the world of fragrance and hosted by none other than Nick and myself.

Fume Chat aims to have fun with fragrance – after all, it’s just perfume, so why it take it so seriously? We’ll be sniffing exciting scents, both new and old, battling head-to-head to see who can pick the best fragrances, and discussing many topics related to the smelly aspects of this wonderful world. All you need to do is subscribe, download and listen, and you’ll be ready to receive your bi-weekly fix of Fume Chat.

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New Escentual Post: The Terryific Oud Collection


Terryific Oud, Terryific Oud L’Eau & Terryific Oud Extreme

What happens when you mix the ex-Creative Director of Yves Saint Laurent and the ancient perfume ingredient oud? The answer is Terry de Gunzburg’s Terryific Oud Collection. Celebrating oud through spices, fruits, resins and flowers, all of which are very ‘red’ in nature, the Terryific Oud Collection offers up three takes on an accord in varying strengths and presentations. So which is the one you would go for? Would it be the spicy and fruity original, or perhaps the peppery and silky L’Eau, or maybe, just maybe you’d go for the Extreme and it’s blood-red rose. Click here to head on over to Escentual to read my review of the collection.

Day Glow – Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin Perfume Review

Day Glow

Day Glow

I’ve always seen Francis Kurkdjian as a perfumer of light. The fragrances he creates for his own maison and the many brands within the designer arena often possess a radiant and glowing quality that burns much brighter than many other fragrances on the market. Through the use of familiar, yet top quality materials, Francis Kurkdjian captures ultra violet rays and bottles them, making fragrances that glisten but are also approachable, effortless and exceptionally well made. What’s not to like?

His latest fragrance, Petit Matin (which has been launched as a duo with the yin to its yang, Grand Soir) is inspired by the lights of Paris during the early morning. It’s a dewy, optimistic scent made in Kurkdjian’s unmistakeable spacious and solar style, boasting citruses, florals and musks in perfect equilibrium. It’s just the thing if you fancy a fragrance that simply smells good and is neither too bland nor too demanding – something that’s just right (Goldilocks would be all over it).

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A Little Tease…

Something Awesome This Way Comes...

All Will be ‘Unblurred’ Soon…

I have a very exciting announcement. Well, I do have an announcement, but I’m not announcing that announcement just yet. Consider this an announcement of the fact that I’m going to have an announcement! This Sunday (23 October 2016), my good friend and scented partner in crime Nick Gilbert and I will be launching a brand new project – one that sees us exploring fragrance via a medium we haven’t used thus far. So, swing by at 09:00 (GMT) on Sunday 23 October 2016 because something awesome this way comes…

Pink Pigment – Jo Malone London Tuberose Angelica Perfume Review

Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense

Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense

I do love tuberose, it’s true, but it often feels that all of the great tuberoses have already been well and truly done. After all, it’s pretty difficult to best the likes of Fracas, Carnal Flower, Tubereuse Criminelle and Beyond Love now, isn’t it? But every now and then a new tuberose will come along that brings something new to the table, something that isn’t photorealistic, venomous, raucous or all of the above – something that is the antithesis of all of these truly wonderful things.

The thing is, tuberose can be rather demanding (it is reportedly known to corrupt virgins, you know) and it has a tendency to dominate every molecule of air it comes into contact with, so one can be found craving the beauty of tuberose but with a little less of the baggage. Enter Tuberose Angelica by Jo Malone London, an everyday sort of tuberose that is high on prettiness and low of drama. Created by perfumer Marie Salamagne (who also made the brand’s tremendous Mimosa & Cardamom), Tuberose Angelica is part of the Cologne Intense collection, but despite its dark, brooding packaging, it has one heck of a sunny disposition!

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By Kilian, Burlington Arcade


By Kilian, Burlington Arcade

Burlington Arcade is London’s unofficial perfume destination. Its 196 yards host the likes of Penhaligon’s, Lalique, Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, CHANEL, Doja Rove and By Kilian, making it an essential stop for any London tourist that is partial to a bit of perfume. The dainty Georgian promenade is a perfume-lovers paradise and quite organically offers a unpretentious, calm and accessible atmosphere that is seldom found in the city’s many department stores, which are so often crowded centres of anxiety, pushy sales people and too much perfume (if such a thing exists).

I was invited to Burlington Arcade to visit By Kilian’s only standalone boutique in the UK (they also have a boutique in Harrods’ Salon de Parfums) for a tour of the brand’s many scented options. Now, By Kilian is a brand that I feel that I’ve had limited exposure to. I remember being intrigued by some of the fragrances within the initial collection, which at the time of launch, seemed so different to anything else that was out there in niche. Since my initial exploration of By Kilian, the brand has exploded, offering a whopping 38 fragrances, home fragrance options and scented jewellery. Obviously I had some catching up to do so with my super-knowledgeable By Kilian rep as my guide, I got stuck right in.

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