The raw materials in the perfumes we wear are fascinating but they can often be confusing and inaccessible. In Material Focus I try to demystify these essential building blocks of perfumery, covering how they smell and how they’re used.

Let’s be real for a second, it can sometimes be utterly mystifying to read a notes list. Often you’ll stumble across materials that you’ve never heard of and some that frankly, don’t exist (“black gardenia” anyone?!). You see, many of these materials aren’t things we encounter in every day life, so it can be hard to place them, and when we can’t place them, or relate to them, they can feel meaningless. I’m all about making perfume accessible, so in this new series I’ll be looking at some of the nifty aroma chemicals that are used widely in perfumery, covering how they smell and how they’re used, so when you encounter them in the wild, you know exactly what they are.

 

I’m always crushing on something scented or other. My nose knows no limits. Candy Crush is where I showcase the beautifully scented things I’m crushing on right now so you can hopefully develop a crush too.

It’s been over 25 years since MUGLER launched ANGEL, their divisive flagship perfume. Since then the signature ANGEL accord of patchouli and vanilla has been copied thousands of times over, birthing the likes of Coco Mademoiselle (CHANEL) and Flowerbomb (Viktor & Rolf) amongst many others. MUGLER too, have spent their time reimagining ANGEL, offering up a host of flankers, swirling their flagship scent into gourmand treats ranging from the boozy to the fruity, and all that’s in between.

In 2011, MUGLER launched an Eau de Toilette version of ANGEL (created by Perfumer Amandine Marie) that was lighter and more diluted (but not fresher) than the original. I’m not sure how well this version resonated but I suppose it didn’t feel different enough to really justify its existence. Perhaps MUGLER felt the same because for 2019 they have launched an entirely new ANGEL EDT created by Perfumer Louise Turner. New juice, new bottle, same old ANGEL.

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To me, MUGLER COLOGNE, has always felt like a perfect mid-point in the MUGLER brand. Where ANGEL and ALIEN etc. have always been divisive, challenging compositions, COLOGNE embodies a more palatable signature, whilst maintaining the innovative, unusual quality of the brand. With its weird, steamy muskiness, COLOGNE is as much a ‘MUGLER’ as ANGEL, but somehow it feels more casual, more effortless and with a wider appeal.

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I’m always crushing on something scented or other. My nose knows no limits. Candy Crush is where I showcase the beautifully scented things I’m crushing on right now so you can hopefully develop a crush too.

Look! At! This!

Is it not a thing of beauty? A resplendent rock! A glorious rainbow of loveliness! A majestic talisman befitting of the iconic juice it hides inside. This is ALIEN by MUGLER housed within the new We Are All Alien Collector Bottle and it is simply a thing of beauty. Now, I could go to great lengths to explain exactly why this has made it to the Candy Crush list this week, but it’s kind of obvious, don’t you think? So instead, I’ll simply say this: look at it!

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Speed Sniffs are a way to bring you ‘to-the-point’ fragrance reviews that are quick and easy to digest. They are perfume reviews without the faff.

The MUGLER Eau de Toilettes for ANGEL, ALIEN, and now AURA are almost like diet versions of the originals. The structure is still there but they have been lightened in a sense, making them zero-calorie, palatable options that are a little bit easier to get on with. Now I’m here for the full fat, calorie-laden versions at all times, but sometimes one wants a little bit of lightness and clarity. Every now and then, maybe? OK, OK, once in a blue moon then!

Following the success of AURA, MUGLER’S first feminine pillar since 2010’s WOMANITY (poor, doomed WOMANITY), MUGLER have launched an Eau de Toilette version – a yin to the Eau de Parfums yang. They describe it as “a new aromatic interpretation of colourful, glowing freshness”. Or as I’d put it, if AURA EDP is a lush rainforest filled with stifling, scented air, AURA EDT is a fine mist of rain that breezes through said forest. They are of the same place but they are not of the same weight.

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I’m always crushing on something scented or other. My nose knows no limits. Candy Crush is where I showcase the beautifully scented things I’m crushing on right now so you can hopefully develop a crush too.

Oh MUGLER, why do you keep releasing all of these lovely things that I want? New fragrances, candles, shower gels – eesh, it’s just a MUGLER fest this year and of course II am here for it. What’s that you say? Brand new Perfuming Pens for ANGEL, ALIEN and AURA, you say? Each of them under £30 too? Hmm, it’s a tough sell, I’ll be honest. OK FINE I’ll take ten of each, please! Damn you, MUGLER. Damn. You.

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Recently when I reviewed ALIEN MAN, I moaned about how it did not smell like a ‘MUGLER’ and how I thought that was a very bad thing. Today I am reviewing Mystic Aromatic, the latest (and tenth) edition to Les Exceptions, an exclusive line of fragrances from MUGLER, and in this review I will say that it does not smell like a MUGLER and remark how I feel that is a good thing. I am a wave of contradictions, Dear Reader, I know. But do read on and you will soon understand why these contradictions are aptly applied.

Mystic Aromatic is described by MUGLER as presenting “an intense aromatic freshness contrasted by hot, bewitching notes”. As with the other fragrances in Les Exceptions, this one too seeks to subvert a familiar genre with an interesting olfactory twist, in this case taking the green aromatic family and injecting it with an unexpected ambery warmth. The result is yet another contradiction from MUGLER, where warm meets cold, fresh meets dense, masculine meets feminine, and green meets gold. Once again, MUGLER proves that it has the ability to surprise…