This is just a quickie to say that The perfume Society has released their very latest edition of […]
Atelier Cologne, the purveyors of the modern eau de cologne, have launched a brand new collection of five fragrances entitled ‘Collection Orient’. Oriental fragrances, and oriental collections for that matter, are a dime a dozen in the world of perfumery and so often they present nothing more than the same notes in the same dense manner and in the same black and white bottles, but not Atelier Cologne’s Collection Orient. No, this collection is something different altogether. For a start, the bottles are white, hinting at a look at the genre from an entirely new angle, whereas the scents themselves are entirely unexpected and refreshingly unique, subverting one’s ideas of oriental scents rather marvellously.
I haven’t sniffed the entire collection yet (we did give Tobbaco Nuit a good nose in episode one of Fume Chat), but the clear standout from the Collection Orient fragrances I have smelled is Mimosa Indigo. Now, I like me a mimosa, but good ones are hard to find, so it’s always reassuring when a respected brand such as Atelier Cologne gives the note a go. Mimosa Indigo is described as a “velvet and addictive” cologne, taking inspiration from the story of a three am trip home after an evening spent in a New York jazz club whilst wearing the most amazing purple dress, you know, as you do. This is Atelier Cologne shaking up the genre and doing it exceptionally well.
I was introduced to the debut fragrances from Parisian fashion house Zadig & Voltaire this week and I was so darn impressed, I simply had to write about them for my Escentual column. Dubbed This is Her! and This is Him! Zadig & Voltaire’s fragrances offer up unique twists on familiar themes, making for fun, free-spirited and fashionable fragrances that stand out from the norm. This is Her! is a nutty, hairspray floral with sandalwood, and This is Him! is a sexy, smoky vanilla with woody and leather nuances. Both smell really good! Click here to check out my full review.
Green fragrances are my least favourite, I’m just going to come right out and say it. They so often feel harsh and demanding, not to mention the fact that many of the greats now feel very dated, relying on aldehydes and galbanum (notes du jour of the ’80s) to create a style that is distinct, yes, but definitely out of line with current trends. So yes, green fragrances, bar a few notable exceptions (see Amazingreen & Panorama) are not for me and judging by their absence from the department store shelves, I’m not the only one to feel this way.
But green is making a comeback at the hands of one of perfumery’s titans. That’s right, TOM FORD is bringing back ‘green’. The leading man of fashion and fragrance is reviving one of perfumery’s most out of favour genres – one that permeated the designer arena throughout the ’70s and ’80s, but now seems decidedly absent. But of course, Mr Ford’s idea of green is inspired by the classics, but does not replicate them. Instead, with Les Extraits Vert, the newly-launched sub-section of green fragrances within his Private Blend Collection, Ford adds his contemporary twist, making this tired genre something exciting and new.
Les Extraits Vert consists of four fragrances; Vert Boheme, Vert d’Encens, Vert de Fleur and Vert des Bois, each of which subverts the green genre rather successfully. Vert des Bois, the subject of this review feels like the most ‘TOM FORD’ of the bunch, offering up smoke, leather and greenery in an aesthetic that is masculine and classy. The brand uses words such as ‘expressive’ and ‘provocative’ to describe Vert des Bois and to an extent, I can see why. Vert des Bois is provocative because it challenges one’s notions of what a green fragrance can be and it certainly makes for a verdant experience unlike any other.
On Monday I teased you all with the hint of a brand new project that Nick Gilbert and I had embarked upon. Well now, after six months of planning, I can reveal to you that the project in question is our very own perfumed podcast! That’s right, launching today is Episode One of ‘Fume Chat’, a fortnightly podcast dedicated to the world of fragrance and hosted by none other than Nick and myself.
Fume Chat aims to have fun with fragrance – after all, it’s just perfume, so why it take it so seriously? We’ll be sniffing exciting scents, both new and old, battling head-to-head to see who can pick the best fragrances, and discussing many topics related to the smelly aspects of this wonderful world. All you need to do is subscribe, download and listen, and you’ll be ready to receive your bi-weekly fix of Fume Chat.
What happens when you mix the ex-Creative Director of Yves Saint Laurent and the ancient perfume ingredient oud? […]
I’ve always seen Francis Kurkdjian as a perfumer of light. The fragrances he creates for his own maison and the many brands within the designer arena often possess a radiant and glowing quality that burns much brighter than many other fragrances on the market. Through the use of familiar, yet top quality materials, Francis Kurkdjian captures ultra violet rays and bottles them, making fragrances that glisten but are also approachable, effortless and exceptionally well made. What’s not to like?
His latest fragrance, Petit Matin (which has been launched as a duo with the yin to its yang, Grand Soir) is inspired by the lights of Paris during the early morning. It’s a dewy, optimistic scent made in Kurkdjian’s unmistakeable spacious and solar style, boasting citruses, florals and musks in perfect equilibrium. It’s just the thing if you fancy a fragrance that simply smells good and is neither too bland nor too demanding – something that’s just right (Goldilocks would be all over it).
I have a very exciting announcement. Well, I do have an announcement, but I’m not announcing that announcement […]
I didn’t originally have a post scheduled for today, but I simply had to tell you about something brand new and exciting from CHANEL. I mean, it would be rude of me not to spread some CHANEL-scented joy now, wouldn’t it? Indeed! Seeing as it’s nearly Christmas (only 71 more sleeps, people) and the holiday season is the domain of CHANEL Nº5, it makes sense that Paris’ biggest fashion house is treating us to a delightfully scented treat just in time for gifting season – a treat that is certainly getting me very excited: Nº5 Body Oil.
“Nº5 THE BODY OIL offers an exceptional moment of supreme refinement. The extremely gentle scented oil brings a promise of relaxation in the soothing atmosphere of Nº5. It subtly emits the iconic fragrance like a beckoning path to sensual delight. Bathed in a delicate scent, the skin is left soft, moisturised and dry to the touch.”
– CHANEL
I do love tuberose, it’s true, but it often feels that all of the great tuberoses have already been well and truly done. After all, it’s pretty difficult to best the likes of Fracas, Carnal Flower, Tubereuse Criminelle and Beyond Love now, isn’t it? But every now and then a new tuberose will come along that brings something new to the table, something that isn’t photorealistic, venomous, raucous or all of the above – something that is the antithesis of all of these truly wonderful things.
The thing is, tuberose can be rather demanding (it is reportedly known to corrupt virgins, you know) and it has a tendency to dominate every molecule of air it comes into contact with, so one can be found craving the beauty of tuberose but with a little less of the baggage. Enter Tuberose Angelica by Jo Malone London, an everyday sort of tuberose that is high on prettiness and low of drama. Created by perfumer Marie Salamagne (who also made the brand’s tremendous Mimosa & Cardamom), Tuberose Angelica is part of the Cologne Intense collection, but despite its dark, brooding packaging, it has one heck of a sunny disposition!
The Candy Perfume Boy 