Pierre Guillaume Has Been a Very Busy Boy – Huitième Art Ambre Céruléen, Sucre D’Ebène & Myrrhiad Perfume Reviews

Pierre Guillaume

Pierre Guillaume – Not just a pretty face!

What a busy boy Pierre Guillame is. Not only is he the man and the exceptionally talented nose behind the über exciting brand Parfumerie Générale, he is also responsible for brands such as Phaedon and Hutième Art. He creates for all three brands whilst managing to look effortlessly handsome. It makes you hate him just a little bit, doesn’t it?

Ok, I’m just being silly, I don’t really hate Pierre Guillaume, in fact it’s quite the opposite, I have great respect for him and his fragrant vision. He has managed to craft himself a distinct style and has very much found his own little niche in the market. With Parfumerie Générale and Huitième Art, Guillaume tinkers with the most ancient and noble of ingredients, interpreting each one in new and surprising ways.

Huitième Art is one Pierre Guillaume’s many projects and is a collection of 9 perfumes “showcasing an all-new ‘plant capture’, an original plant-inspired accord or natural organic ingredient” and with “an emphasis on originality and sophistication”. Each perfume is housed in one of the most fascinating flacons I have ever come across, a part-modern, part-natural ceramic cyclops intended to represent the eye looking to the future, which just so happens to be the exact same direction that M. Guillaume’s nose is pointed.

Ambre Céruléen

Ambre Céruléen

“A powdery balm for an airy amber”

The Notes

Opoponax, Fève Tonka and Sandalwood

How Does it Smell?

I’m not usually a massive fan of amber. Don’t get me wrong, I do enjoy a good cosy dose of amber, but it’s just not my favourite style of perfume, perhaps because I haven’t found my amber yet. Or should I say ‘hadn’t found my amber yet’, that was until Ambre Céruléen came into my world.

Ambre Céruléen is a euphorically beautiful amber that has everything a good amber should, and in perfect proportion. Velvety sandalwood, creamy vanilla and a light dusting of spices, namely cinnamon, clove and god-knows-what-else that makes it so utterly fabulous.

A good amber should envelop you and wrap you in it’s warmth. The amber is the olfactory comfort blanket, it defends you from the cold, harsh realities of life and wraps you in a cloud of luxury, safety and love. Ambre Céruléen does all this in such a smooth and effortless way that I can’t help but fall in love with it.

I wonder what the Amber Queen over at Olfactoria’s Travels thinks of this one?

Sucre D'Ebéne

Sucre D’Ebène

“The gentle caress of sweet trade winds”

The Notes

Brown Sugar, Witch Hazel and Benzoin

How Does it Smell?

My first thought upon smelling Sucre D’Ebène was “Wow, this actually smells like burned sugar!” Sucre D’Ebène instantly makes me think for those glorious wisps of caramel, fastidiously constructed into a birds nest and wrapped around the finest of desserts. It is definitely an odd bird, that at times can be very difficult to wrap your head/nose around.

Pierre Guillaume has a real talent for creating surprising gourmand confections that are rooted within deep woods and rich, exotic ingredients. Sucre D’Ebène is no exception, the dark brown sugar sits upon a bed of cosy, fluffy benzoin that makes it feel like a more adult version of candy floss, one that isn’t coloured in pink hues but tones of rather wonderful golden brown.

Like a few fragrances within the Parfumerie Générale line, namely Musc Maori, I’m not entirely sure just how wearable Sucre D’Ebène is. Don’t get me wrong, it does smell wonderful on the skin, and I love to to smell it, I’m just still deliberating as to whether I would want to smell of it. That said, there is definitely something addictive about it that really appeals to my sweet tooth and whilst I’m still making my mind up I am more than happy to keep smelling this confection for grown-ups.

Myrrhiad

Myrrhiad

“The story of myrrh is as old as that of perfume”

The Notes

Myrrh, Black Tea Absolute, Vanilla and Liqourice

How Does it Smell?

Myrrhiad is the latest addition to the Huitième Art line and is so far the only perfume to be added to the line since its launch. I find it to be quite an unusual take on myrrh, a note that is usually paired with relatively dry, woody materials to amp up its masculine facets. With Myrrhiad, Guillaume takes a different approach and opts to use vanilla to soften and tame this most ancient of notes.

The vanilla itself is very soft, it is quite understated and dry with a wonderfully sweet smoky aura that pairs pretty damn nicely with the myrrh. I especially like how the vanilla isn’t allowed to take over, something that it can so often do, it’s very easy to ‘over-egg the vanilla pudding’ as it were, but thankfully a good deal of vanilla restraint has been exercised here.

To contrast the sweetness of the vanilla, black tea and liquorice have been added. Both of these ingredients add a myriad (no pun intended) of facets – earthy, rooty, herbal and menthol – that keep the vanilla in check and add a good deal of ‘darkness’ that is more than welcome.

Myrrhiad is a very interesting perfume, but like Sucre D’Ebène, it has an unusual toasted-sugar note that I’m not entirely comfortable with in a perfume. That said it is inherently more wearable than the latter and It does smell great. If you’re looking for an unusual take on myrrh then I would highly recommend it.

Availability

Ambre Céruléen, Sucre D’Ebène and Myrrhiad are available in 50ml Eau de Parfum for £88.

Disclaimer

This review is based on samples of Ambre Céruléen and Sucre D’Ebène supplied by Les Senteurs and a sample of Myrrhiad sourced myself.

All quotes and notes via huitiemeart.com

Image 1 cafleurebon.com
Images 2, 3 & 4 luckyscent.com

Advertisements

30 thoughts on “Pierre Guillaume Has Been a Very Busy Boy – Huitième Art Ambre Céruléen, Sucre D’Ebène & Myrrhiad Perfume Reviews

  1. In another instance of great minds thinking alike, perfume ESP, stars aligning etc., I’m currently testing the Huitième Art collection as well.
    So far, I have Ambre Ceruléen down as “strange amber”. 😉
    Generally I love PG’s traditional perfumery creations a lot more than these pared down sketches on new, but undoubtedly interesting notes. Like you, I like to explore them, but would I want to wear them? So far, there is only one (maybe two) I would love to wear, the others seem more like fascinating experiments than perfumes to live in.
    And don’t get me started on the Starship Galactica bottle… 😉

    • “Perfume ESP” – I love it!

      I did wonder, as you saw in the post, what you thought of Ambre Céruléen, seeing as you are the amber queen and I shall look forward to your review.

      I’m totally with you on the experimental angle, it almost seems like a vanity project for Guillaume, and whilst the results are definitely interesting, AC is the only one that makes me want to consider a purchase. I have only tried the three though.

      I take it that you’re not a fan of the bottle then 😛 I love it, it’s just so unusual and feels great.

  2. Hmmm, these sound like fun ones to try not necessarily to wear, if I was not so broke and starving (la femme bleue purchase, nuff said) I would look into getting hold of some samples.:-)

  3. I tested most of these in a mad splurge last April and have no notes, just ticks and crosses beside each name! The amber one and the Sucre d’Ebene had crosses I am afraid: I think I also found the first strange and the second not especially wearable, as you say.

    However, I liked about five of them, and even the newer Myrrhiad that I tried the other week is growing on me as I appear to be developing a late flowering?/onset? tolerance for licorice.

    “Good deal of vanilla restraint” tickled me! Not usually necessary in my case, but I can understand your feelings. : – )

    • Myrrhiad seems to be getting a lot of good press from all corners of the blogosphere.

      Licorice (which my computer always changes to liquorice for some reason) is a funny note that I’ve also taken a while to love. It’s not something that I ever thought I’d want to smell of.

  4. You really make me want to try more from this line! I’ve only tried Myrrhiad and liked the way it was so pared down you could detect every note. It really made me look forward to the new Guerlain myrrh perfume rather than want to buy a bottle though. Maybe I want more complexity for that money..

    I love the burnt caramel of PG’s Aomassai so Sucre D’Ebène is a must try for me. I can see it might not be very wearable though.

    I quite like those funny bottles…

  5. I have yet to try any of the Huitieme Art series – I have been underwhelmed by the several PG scents I’ve tried so far. They’ve all been very nice, well-done, attractive things that somehow just failed to capture my imagination. Also, many of the ones I have tested reminded me of something else. That’s not to say that every scent MUST be arresting and individual and unique -there are bound to be variations on a theme – it’s just that the things that the PGs reminded me of were all preferable to me in some way.

  6. I’m so behind testing this line that I’m not even upset any more 🙂 I’ll get there eventually. Probably. But I liked everything I tried so far from Pierre Guillame. Maybe I’m that impressionable and he’s that good-looking but I think he’s extremely talented (and have I mentioned good-looking? 😉 ).

  7. As much as I’m a total “Pierre Fanboy”, I must admit I’m afraid I’m in total agreement with “Amber Queen B’ ” on the 8th Art collection. …
    And I might have quite liked Pierre’s Ambre Céruléen were it not for the fact that I already much prefer his own PG amber masterpiece L’Ombre Fauve. (Which I personally believe is a much more interesting and more “wholehearted” amber in comparison. ~ Also, most importantly, it doesn’t get quite as “baby-powdery” as does AC on me.) … I don’t know, whilst it’s certainly pleasant enough, as another “amber-queen” 😉 I just find AC a touch too anaemic an amber for my own personal tastes. … Have you tried his L’Ombre Fauve yet ?? (I’d luv to know how you’d compare them.)

    Also, and sorry to point this out, but I believe you have a touch of misinformation in the above text. Hutième Art Parfums was not actually a collaboration with Octavian Coifan as such, (as far as the business or perfume creation). He merely honoured Octavian by naming his new line “8th Art” as he agreed with his concept that perfumery is the eighth artistic discipline. Other than that there was no actual “collaboration”.
    For confirmation please check this interview where he discusses this exact point : http://www.cafleurebon.com/interview-with-pierre-guillaume-huitieme-art-perfumes-phyto-perfumery-giveaway/

  8. I really need to try this line, I was in Les Senteurs the other day and completely forgot! Too busy wrapped up in other things.
    I’m only recently discovering this guys work and have been blown away by certain ones.
    For some reason, I keep imagining these fragrances to be too simplified and airy, something about the look of them, the descriptions, and the lack of notes creates a bad olfactory image in my head… not cool.
    But hopefully I’ll be very suprised, they’re on my to try list 🙂

  9. This line has been really hit or miss for me but I expect that with any line. It’s very, very rare for me to like everything in an entire line (unless the line only consists of 2 perfumes, lol)

    I think all of these are great perfumes even if they aren’t for me. Guillaume is brilliant and I still want him to be in my perfumer pin-up calendar.

  10. Pingback: Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind – Amouage Opus VI Perfume Review | The Candy Perfume Boy

  11. Pingback: Delicious Desert – Parfumerie Générale PG22 Djhenné Perfume Review | The Candy Perfume Boy

  12. Pingback: Ambre Ceruleen by Pierre Guillaume for Huitieme Art Parfums 2010 « AustralianPerfumeJunkies

  13. Pingback: Huitieme Art Myrrhiad EDP Perfume Review | EauMG

Join the Discussion!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s