Just a speedy review from me today. I was recently sent a sample of Cicatrices, the latest Extrait de Parfum from LM Parfums. It’s interesting for me, to try something completely new from a brand that I’ve had no exposure to previously – it’s almost like opening a tiny window into a new world. Sometimes there’ll be a marvellous fantasy land just behind the curtains, and sometimes, all there is to be found is a barren wasteland of cold, depressing nothingness. Cicatrices definitely isn’t the latter, but it’s not quite the former either.
LM Parfums is a French brand created by Laurent Mazzone, a figure within the fashion industry who has worked with “some of the greats of French perfumery” to create his line of fragrances. His latest fragrance, Cicatrices is named after the French word for scars and is described as an “intimate oriental” that boasts notes of amber and liquorice. Available in Extrait de Parfum, Cicatrices is a rich fragrance with top notch ingredients and a pleasing sense of depth.
“Beautiful, rich and complex this is a scar of the most delicate kind – a fragrance that leaves its mark, locking in the emotion of a moment for all time.”
– LM Parfums
Top: Liquorice and Bergamot
Heart: Myrrh, Iris and Leather Notes
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla and Labdanum
How Does it Smell?
Cicatrices reminds me of Byredo’s 1996, albeit with a liquorice twist. The opening is zesty and juicy with a lemon-tinged dollop of iris, accented by an earthy, yet bitter liquorice note. Somehow the aniseed vibe adds to the juiciness and makes the whole thing oddly mouthwatering, and slightly offbeat. This all sits atop a bed of amber and vanilla that is fluffy and resinous, but not too sweet, thanks to a piquant slice of fresh pepper. Overall the balance is nice and its clear that the ingredients used are of good quality.
Cicatrices is nicely done. I’m not sure I can recommend shelling out the hefty £225 price tag when 1996 does something very similar, and with better longevity, but those who fancy an anise twist on the familiar amber accord may find something of interest here. It’s all also worth noting that the iris facet is stronger (and more literal) here than in 1996, adding an aloof quality that makes Cicatrices difficult to pin down. All in all, Cicatrices feels like an standoffish take on amber – a gauzy oriental seen through a veil, close enough to see but just outside of reach.
Cicatrices is available in 100ml Extrait de Parfum for £225.
Sample, notes and quotes via LM Parfums. Image 1 is Steven Klein for L’Officiel Singapore. Image 2 via imagine-parfum.ru.