I’ve said before and I’ll say it again, Parfums de Marly blend a heritage, renaissance aesthetic with a modern olfactory output really rather well. Their best seller, the milky, sugar-crystal-covered rose Delina is a genuinely innovative and unique composition (by the masterful Quentin Bisch, no less) that certainly deserves its cult status. That said, it’s a big collection and not everything resonates with me (I tend to lean towards the feminines than the masculines) but I’m always curious to see what the brand is up to.
Well, what they’re up to is Oriana – their latest launch. Presented in beautiful Candy Perfume Pink (I should patent that…), Oriana feels very much like an extension of Delina’s baby pink rose. This time though, things have got a whole lot gourmand, with key notes of marshmallow, orange blossom and Chantilly cream folded into something brighter, bolder and more delicious. Parfums de Marly describe Oriana as a “mille-feuille of flaky sweetness, softness, and sensuality” and if that’s not enough to make you hungry to try it, then I don’t know what is! Let’s sniff!
The Notes
Top: Mandarin, Bergamot and Grapefruit
Heart: Orange Blossom, Blackcurrant and Raspberry
Base: Marshmallow, Ambrette, Chantilly Cream and Musk
How Does it Smell?
As one would expect from a perfume housed within a fuchsia pink bottle that wouldn’t look out of place in Marie Antoinette’s handbag (no shade, this is a high compliment from me) Oriana opens up with a whirlwind of deliciousness. It’s like barging open the doors in a luxurious patisserie where everything is pink, fruity and floral. Zippy, tart citrus notes blend with the sharpness of blackcurrant and raspberry, adding a layer of freshness that works hard to stop everything underneath becoming too much – too creamy, too thick, too calorific.
The core of the fragrance centres around marshmallows with their toasted edges bringing in a gorgeous, malted sugar effect. But these are fancy marshmallows flavoured with beautiful orange blossom water which adds a sunny, aqueous and subtle, honey-like nuance, blending with the zesty quality of the fruits and citruses to create a current of freshness that runs throughout the fragrance. This freshness though, is immediately contrasted by a wave of fluffy Chantilly cream. Everything is folded delicately into the cream, which adds a wonderful airy and plump texture to the fragrance – it’s a fantastic twist.
So what’s the verdict? I like it. People are going to draw comparisons with Kilian’s Love (Don’t be Shy) and they won’t be wrong, both Oriana and Love share that ‘marshmallows soaked in orange blossom syrup’ vibe, but Oriana lacks the rose note and places more focus on the fruit and citrus notes. Somehow it feels more decadent but also fresher than Love, perhaps because it strikes a different balance. Oriana is created in the same vein as Delina (a floral gourmand) but it feels bolder, with bigger brush strokes and a more audacious, riotous feel. It’s a heck of a lot of fun.
Longevity & Projection
How long does it last?
I say you get a good six hours on the skin before things start to soften.
Will other people smell it?
Yes, it’s diffusive and ‘big’, but more of a misty cloud of a scent than an oppressive weight.
Availability
Oriana is available in a 75ml Eau de Parfum for £210.
Disclaimer
Images are my own. Sample (full bottle) gifted by Parfums de Marly. This is not a sponsored post.
The Candy Perfume Boy 