Andy Tauer, the self-taught independent perfumer from Switzerland, offers a line of unique perfumes that vary in their unique identity, yet they all seem to share an inherent ‘Tauerness’ that runs as a coherent theme linking each scent to each other. Others have coined this link ‘The Tauerade’ (in the same way the Guerlain base is known as the ‘Guerlainade’) and my favourite example of the Tauer accord is in Orange Star.

Orange Star was released in 2010 and is one of the latest additions to Andy Tauer’s ‘Classics’ line, which includes such highly regarded scents as; L’Air du Désert Marocain, Lonestar Memories, Incense Extrême and Incense Rose. Andy Tauer describes Orange Star as “a rich citrus fragrance with a clean orange flower in its heart, and a soft elegant base that seems to last forever”. [1]

If I had to pick a favourite Tauer fragrance (it’s a hard task to pick just one) Orange Star would probably be it, it’s just so unique and not in an unwearable way (see Sécrétions Magnifiques), it is absolutely beautiful and wearing it is akin to receiving a big orange scented hug.

The Notes

Top: Clementine, Mandarin and Orange
Heart: Lemongrass, Orange Flower, Clean Notes and Violet
Base: Soft Woods, Ambergris, Patchouli, Vanilla, Cistus and Ambreine [2]

How Does it Smell?

The trio of clementine, mandarin and orange makes for a bright and sparkling opening and yes the overall impression is that of orange, but it’s not the typical fresh orange that is used in mainstream fragrances. The orange here is zesty and crisp, almost bitter, like the scent of orange peel as well as the juice, pith and all of the other fragrant materials found in an orange. I would describe it as a full orange, almost photorealistic but with something almost unearthly hiding in the background.

The orange fruit is joined by orange flower, a fragrantly complex flower that has many facets; fruity, clean (like cleaning products), indolic, bright and jammy etc. In Orange Star the orange flower gives a sweet undertone to the plethora of zesty fruit within the top notes, it also bolsters the fruity facet and adds a touch of that dirty/clean vibe that only the genius of white flowers seems to be able to achieve.

All of that orange (fruit and flower) rest on Tauer’s signature base of vanilla, tonka and ambergris. This blend of orange and vanilla is striking to say the least, and at first you can’t help but find it slightly unsettling, it smells like nothing else you have smelled before, but once you give it a little bit of time you realise just how unique and wonderful it is.

Orange Star is like an olfactory version of Lady Gaga, at first you think it’s a complete and utter freak, but with time you see that it is unique, clever and chock full of talent, or you decide that you don’t like it at all. But as we know, the best fragrances are the ones that polarise opinion and that’s one thing Orange Star certainly does!

Some may say that Orange Star smells like a variety of orange scented cleaning product, and I can see why, there is a clean, zestyness that flashes through the top notes, but that’s where the similarity ends.

To me, Orange Star is the most cosy and comforting scent I have ever tried, it is cosier than any amber, gourmand or oriental that has crossed my nose and the fact that it achieves this whilst being predominately based on a citrus note just highlights how clever and inventive Andy Tauer is. Orange Star is perfect for those cold days when you want to be comforted by something warm but also want a zesty flash of summer to remind you that the cold won’t last forever.

Availability

Orange Star is available in 50ml Eau de Parfum for £99.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample of Orange Star from my own personal collection.

[1] osmoz.com

[2] tauerperfumes.com

Image 1 christmasstockimages.com

Image 2 apetogentleman.com

Image 3 allposters.com