The Beast Within
Some perfumes come surrounded by so my hyperbole that it is impossible to approach them with an open mind. The perfume community does have a habit of hyping things up to god-like levels so that when one comes to trying something regarded as the divine ambrosia it’s almost too easy to be completely disappointed.
Still, disappointment isn’t such a bad thing, after all it allows us to reaffirm our tastes and what we do or don’t like. Anyway, sometimes it’s good to stand out from the pack, you might be miffed at the time but individuality is something to be celebrated. But there are times when a whole heap of hype can be substantiated and one fine example would be Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir.
“When the night takes on its own life, the tempo changes. Take a long, languorous breath. Linger till dawn. Keep your head in the stars. You’re suspended in time.”
Absolue Pour le Soir (Absolute for the Evening) is a “more concentrated and sophisticated” version of Kurkdjian’s Cologne Pour le Soir. If I had to sum it up in three words I would choose; “beautiful, filthy beast” because it is a fragrance that has the power to shock due to its strong dichotomy of ugliness and beauty.
Alpha. Omega.
The Notes
Benzoin from Siam, Rose Honey, Incense Absolute, Ylang Ylang, Cumin, Atlas Cedar and Sandalwood
How Does it Smell?
My very first encounter with Absolue Pour le Soir was not a joyous one. Having heard all of the praise (and horror) from fellow fumelovers I tentatively picked up a tester in Liberty and gave one generous spray to the back of my hand. In this precise moment one has a simple choice; fight or flight. I chose flight.
There’s a heck a lot of stuff going on in Absolue Pour le Soir and in the first instance it is easy to be overwhelmed. Right from the first spritz Absolue unleashes a cacophony on odours; honey, imortelle, cumin and a whole hunk o’ civet, it puts it all out there, front and centre. These warm, syrupy smells are underpinned by something cool and almost mentholated during the opening stages, adding to the already rather rich textures of this absolue for the evening.
A gorgeous blend of rose and cedar is added as things develop and the whole thing stops growling, settling into a steady purr for the rest of the evening. There isn’t a huge amount of development but in Absolue’s case I think that this is for the better; it smells so good why would you want it to change? It does after all, showcase the perfect equilibrium of warm coziness and filthy animalics.
I have spent a considerable amount of time resampling Absolue Pour le Soir since our ill-fated first meeting in Liberty and I can now freely admit that it is one of the most wickedly beautiful fragrances out there, so beautiful that I simply had to buy a bottle. It’s a big snuggly, sleeping beast to wrap oneself in whilst battling the cold and harsh realities of winter, when the only reason to get out of bed is to find your bottle and bravely spritz some on.
Would I be adding to the hyperbole if I were to say that Absolue Pour le Soir is simply addictive? I would? OK, I’m cool with that…
Availability
Absolute Pour le Soir is available in 70ml Eau de Parfum for £115.
Disclaimer
Images 1 and 2 Madonna by Steven Klein. Notes and quotes via Francis Kurkdjian.
I was surprised and pleased that they had this in Isetan Tokyo yesterday, as it seems very counter to Japanese tastes. I was not quite in the mood for a spritz myself, but sniffed it from the bottle and have to say I kind of like it (I also love any excuse to mention a remix of Justify My Love…!)
Hehe any excuse to mention Madonna really…
I too am surprised that you found it APlS in Tokyo, I thought it would be too much of a Godzilla for Japanese tastes. There must be some very brave (and wonderful smelling) people over there!
There is quite an underbelly….a darker side…and it IS right next to the gay quarter..
When I saw the title of this post I thought it might be the new Truth or Dare, which I hope you will write about soon as it is sure not to come over here…I wait with baited breath..
Aw man, I cannot WAIT to try the new Truth or Dare. I shall most definitely review it when I do.
I am still wrestling with APLS, some days it is a perfect, beautiful.wild and cuddly-cosy embrace, some days it is cumin, cumin and nothing but cumin that I suffer through miserably, waiting for it to finally just go away!!!!
It is unpredictable, which might be part of its allure…
(I’m afraid to death of Madonna on these photos, I know I’m a super-wimp…)
I totally get where you coming from. Some days the beast just doesn’t wish to be tamed and can strike with a nasty headache.
Like you I am intrigued by that sense of chaos within APLS.
They are pretty freaky photos aren’t they? Possibly my favourite shots of her.
Wait . . . that’s Madonna?!
No!
Wait . . . just identified her from her distinct forearm hair. Yep. Those are some scary beautiful images!
Hehe, you’re right, it sure is!
Viva Italia
I love the opening of ‘Im going to tell u a secret’ , the beast within being one of my most favorite Madge songs ! Great review, I’m intrigued and think I may find this at a local cosmetic store to test freely ! I’m excited
It’s fab isn’t it?
Geeky show-off comment: I’m actually in one of the crowd shots of that documentary
Hail *
:-O Exact time on DVD, please!
Oh gosh, I’ll have to dig out my DVD. It’s during the Hollywood interlude. I shall seek out the correct time.
I’m glad you were finally won over
I think APLS is the star of FK’s own collection.
By the way, who’s that woman in the pictures…?
It absolutely is! APLS and OUD are strokes of genius.
No idea who the woman is, she looks cool though…
One of my all time favorites. But you have to be the right mood to wear it. I have even worn it to work before when I am in a “don’t mess with me today” frame of mind
Sorry, I know this isn’t my blog, but I just couldn’t resist butting in. I wear APLS when I *absolutely* want a certain someone to mess with me
It tends to work…
LOL…I see what you mean. When you wear it at night, it does make you feel ever so sexy. But something about wearing it in the office makes you feel like a big ole bull!
Filth.
Hmmm…
I’m not sure I would’ve gone with a bull as an analogy, but if it works for you…
I agree! On some days it can just be too much.
It’s a fun one to wear to work isn’t it? It’s good to scare a few colleagues…
Congratulations on your full bottle! APLS sounds perfect for a duvet day.
It can be good for a reputation to preceed a perfume because it gives you an incentive to keep testing even if you don’t get it the first time. I’m head over heels with OJ Woman now and I would have given up after my first encounter without encouragement from wonderful people like you.
I’m with B – Madonna is scary these days at the best times but those pics take it to the next level! (Beautifully done though).
Thank you Tara! It’s the best for duvet days.
You are spot on. That encouragement to persevere can really help you spend the time to find those true perfume loves.
Hehe Madonna knows how to push those buttons…
Beautiful pics, would not have guessed it to be Madonna. I had the same reaction as you the first time I scented APLS, but I will scent it again soon, so who knows ? Had the same reaction to Musc Ravageur, not for me. Very nice review btw !
She is hiding under all of that Lacroix
I love APLS. I do agree with Persolaise that it’s the start of his collection. I especially love the animalic character of the scent. It reminds me of a perfume by Mona di Orio (Nuit noire) and Histoires de Parfums 1740 (Marquis de Sade). Do you agree?
I’m curious what you think of histoires de parfums moulin rouge 1889? It’s absolutely different, but I like the smell.
Unfortunately I never got to try the Nuit Noire so I cannot comment on the similarity but I do agree with you that the animalic character in Absolue is wonderful.
I’ve not tried the Histoires either, I’m a bad fumenerd!
I agree with you totally for this review. Absolue Pour le Soir is not for me though.
It’s not something I would have imagined you to have liked.
How come everyone knows I don’t like this kind of perfume and that I prefer harmonious and peaceful scents.?
We just know your tastes!
Looks like you’re right.
Lemming created! Sounds like a very rewarding gauntlet FK has thrown down
Absolutely! I pretty much like most of the line (except the Lumieres which aren’t for me).
I love APLS and bought an unplanned bottle of this about 2 months ago! I love the smell, it’s all about the honey on my skin, and I love that at certain stages it can actually make me blush. Unfortunately I haven’t actually summoned the courage to wear this out of the house yet and this has been made worse by a friend who sniffed me and asked me why I smelled like mens’ toilets…
That’s exactly it! You catch whiffs of it and think; “Oh dear, is that me?” There’s nothing like smelling a bit scandalous…
I wish mens’ toilets smelled as good as APLS.
I love this one, and your take on it is spot-on!
Thanks Tom!
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