Top: Tuberose, Bergamot and Saffron
Heart: Tuberose, Iris and Ylang Ylang
Base: Tuberose, Suede and Cocoa
How Does it Smell?
The first thing you notice about Capricieuse is that it isn’t a tuberose fragrance, in fact it is a rather stunning iris. Now, tuberose may be my favourite note, but if I had to pick a close second, iris would be it. The iris here is the dry, rooty and almost papery kind, that may sound like an odd description, but what I mean is that the iris smells like a bright, white sheet of paper. There is a little bit of bergamot up top as well that adds a touch of sparkle.
Iris is Queen here but her good friend tuberose does make a small cameo appearance during the heart. The tuberose sweetens things slightly but it disappears as quickly as it appeared. I imagine that the tuberose has to be treated with a light touch, being the drama queen that she is she does have a tendency to take over, and our Queen iris probably wouldn’t like that.
Capricieuse is a fairly linear fragrance but as the dry down approaches it does becomes sweeter and warmer, slightly chocolatey hues appear and the whole composition softens to a sheer and silky skin scent.
Despite the fact that Capricieuse is not a tuberose in any way, shape or form (I guess that’s why it is named ‘Capricious’), I really do love it and it is a rather awe-inspiring iris, the rooty, vegetal facets are there and it smells like a true iris, slightly aloof but painfully beautiful.
Top: Tuberose, Tangerine and Cherry
Heart: Tuberose, Jasmine, Tiare and Frangipani
Base: Tuberose, Patchouli, Blond Woods and Vanilla
How Does it Smell?
Virginale is the most floral of the three, but it still isn’t really a tuberose, that said out of all three the tuberose is allowed to shine the most here. Virginale opens with super-fruity top notes of orange and cherry and there is a large dash of aldehydes which gives everything the feel of champagne, and this champagne is probably the cheap kind that tastes best with quite a bit of fruit juice added to it.
The ‘Bucks Fizz’ accord is underpinned by tropical white flowers, specifically tuberose and orange blossom. Together it all feels a bit ditzy, fun and care-free, however it doesn’t strike me as innocent or virginal, in fact it makes me think of a woman who is aware of and confident with her sexuality.
The florals are followed by woods, patchouli and vanilla (which comes in the far dry down), this signature of florals, woods and patchouli smells remarkably like the wonderful Elie Saab Le Parfum, which just so happens to be one of my favourite launches this year, and if I’m being perfectly honest Le Parfum is much better, it feels more quietly confident and less ‘Margaritas in Manhattan’.
Top: Tuberose, Neroli and Kumquat
Heart: Tuberose, Aromatics and Prune
Base: Tuberose, Blond Woods and Immortelle
How Does it Smell
If you haven’t already guessed this so-called trilogy of tuberose is anything but and you won’t be surprised to find out that there isn’t anything remotely animalic about Animale. Animale sits in that category of candied fruit scents such as Noël au Balcon by Etat Libre d’Orange except the former is decidedly less honeyed and cloying than the latter.
Animale opens with a good deal of the aforementioned candied fruit, imagine rich plums, prunes and kumquat (what a stupid name for a fruit) boiled in honey and with a touch of spice and you’re on the right track. These kind of candied fruits have a tendency to smell overly syrupy and cloying, thankfully Animal is chock full of enough woody notes to keep the fruit in check.
The tuberose is more prominent in Animale but it still isn’t allowed to take centre stage, it feels slightly repressed by the woods, spices and fruits, as if all of the heavy stuff has been put on top of the tuberose and it can’t quite break free. That said, the tuberose does add a hot rubbery feel that works nicely with the warmth of the woods and spices.
Like Capricieuse, Animale becomes drier as it develops and the woods, which feel really rich and of high quality by the way, are joined by sweet leather. Now, I’m assuming that the leather is supposed to give Animale an animalic facet but it doesn’t quite manage it, the leather feels soft and plush against the dry quality of the woods.
After going strong for a good few hours, Animale finally settles on a blend of spice, woods and vanilla, which is comforting and delicious but at the same time not completely out of the ordinary. If I were to rate all three Animale would be my second favourite and if it were slightly cheaper I may go for a bottle, but I can’t help but wish that Histoires de Parfums would release a small set, say 10ml of each of these non-tuberoses, now that I would definitely buy.
All free fragrances are available in 120ml and “Cut in Half” 60ml Eau de Parfum. Prices range from €87-€145.
These reviews are based on samples of Tubéreuse 1, 2 and 3 lovingly donated by Ines.
All quotes and notes via Histoires de Parfums.
Image 1 parfumo.de
Image 2 hamptons.com