Is It Just Me Or Did It Get Hot In Here All of a Sudden? – Christian Dior Leather Oud Perfume Review


Leather Oud Photographed by Diego Porcel for BDBM Magazine

We all have a lot to be grumpy about when it comes to Christian Dior Parfums. Not only must we be giving them the evil eye for the dwindling quality in classics such as Diorissimo, we must also be narked about the shoddy reformulations of modern classics like Hypnotic Poison, Pure Poison and Dior Homme/Homme Intense. So yes, it may just be me, but Dior could do a lot more to get in to many a fumehead’s good books.

One area where Dior isn’t letting us down is in their relatively recently launched (2010) “La Collection Privée”, which saw the original Dior Homme Cologne collection (Eau Noire, Bois d’Argent and Ambre Nuit) bumped up to a total of 9 fragrances, before being joined by two new fragrances; Leather Oud and Patchouli Imperial. My interest in in the former was officially piqued at Perfume Lovers London “Evening of Leather“, in which it was described by Lila as a “Sex God”, a moniker which is not to be ignored!

Leather Oud is definitely a stand out within La Collection, and I would argue that it is also a stand out amongst the onslaught of oud based fragrances that populate the market. On the creation of Leather Oud, Dior says: “Christian Dior searched the world, looking for the most beautiful fabrics that exist. Like the designer, the Perfumer (François Demachy) chooses the most beautiful raw materials, one of which is oud wood from Indonesia.” [1] It is this haute couture approach that makes Leather Oud such a success, it is a wonderful example of what happens when quality and artistry collide.

La Collection Privée Christian Dior

La Collection Privée Christian Dior

The Notes

Top: Clove and Cardamom Seed
Heart: Oud, Amyris, Sandalwood and Animalic Notes
Base: Leather, Labdanum Ciste and Birch [2]

How Does it Smell?

Leather Oud starts out really spicy, skanky and Nasty with a capital “N”. The spices, namely cardamom, clove, cinnamon and cumin (a quartet of “Cs”) give the impression of hot, sweaty bodies rolling in the hay. It’s obvious from the beginning that Leather Oud is definitely more of an ‘Oud’ than it is a ‘Leather’ and the aforementioned oud makes an appearance early on in the development.

The oud in Leather Oud is rich and intensely honeyed. It strikes a nice contrast between sweet and sour that gives the impression of warm skin in, erm, “southern places”. This honeyed, sour quality is bolstered by strong, dry woods, namely cedar, sandalwood and gaiac wood which, along with the tar and smoke of the leather really compliments the oud rather nicely.

Despite their absence in the notes list I could swear that there are some white flowers lurking beneath all that wood and smoke. The flowers add a slight hint of indole, which amps up the raunch just beyond the acceptable level of politeness, although Leather Oud never becomes so raunchy that it couldn’t be worn in civilised situations, it’s versatile in that respect.

The base consists of a perfectly enjoyable blend of spicy amber, labdanum and woods. The smoke and animalic raunch persists right through the dry down, in fact they become more pronounced and take centre stage as things progress. It’s one of those fragrances that you find yourself liking more and more with time, and by the time it has completely disappeared (which is a good 12 hours +, it may not be loud but it is tenacious) you’ll be reaching for the sprayer again…

Leather Oud says “sex” louder and more accurately than any other fragrance, forget about Sécrétions Magnifiques, forget about the over-sexed and “sex-by-numbers” marketing of mainstream perfumes, this is the real thing – this fragrance is positively pornographic, it is the smell of unwashed sheets, warm and ruffled and stained with the imprint of the night’s passions. It truly is a “Sex God”.

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Oud

Leather Oud now takes pride of place in The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Oud as “The Pornographic Oud”.


Leather Oud is part of La Collection Privée Christian Dior and is available in 450ml, 250ml and 125ml Eau de Parfum. Prices start at £125.


This review is based on a sample of Leather Oud sourced myself.

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41 thoughts on “Is It Just Me Or Did It Get Hot In Here All of a Sudden? – Christian Dior Leather Oud Perfume Review

  1. Sounds like I am too British and too stiff upper lip to wear this one. Like secretions magnifique I will have to smell it (curiosity killed the cat), hopefully this one I could actually try on skin rather than cautiously sniffing the tester bottle (and almost vomiting I hasten to add) 😉

  2. I do enjoy leather oud – your description makes me want to buy it (again) though my colleague wears it from time to time! I do also agree with your comment on Dior’s neglecting the classics: Jules, Miss Dior, Diorissimo and the ‘shoddy reformulations’ (love that) – a very recent Eau Sauvage Perfume….
    As usual your blog in an friendly perfumed read!

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  4. Ha! “The Pornographic Oud”, I love it. I could never wear this one myself but love to think of it as a Sex God with leather trousers and a hairy chest.

    Really fun review!

  5. I’ve been really impressed with this series (Ambre Nuit is BRILLIANT!)– but I’m not sure if I’m brave enough for this one, from your description.

  6. Love your descriptions of this. I like oud, love leather and enjoy some animal in my perfumes. If I run across a sample of this, I will definitely want to give it a sniff. Still mad at Dior for ruining my evening and sleep time jasmine Pure Poison, not to mention what they did to my loves Diorissimo, Diorella and Diorling. I just got back from a 9 day trip to Paris and didn’t even bother to visit Dior.

    This sounds wonderful! It’s really very hard to find the exclusive Diors in my area (our Dior boutique doesn’t carry them, for whatever bizarre reason), but I will make the effort to hunt down a sex god perfume. Thank you for the review, Thomas!

  8. I like the review and if I hadn’t tried Leather Oud before I would have run to do it now. But I had. I think it’s nice, I think it fits perfectly the collection but I do not have the same feelings towards this particular perfume. In my mind, it’s totally wearable I just do not feel like wearing it.

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  12. Perfect review. I wonder if they have it at the Tokyo Dior store (though the snooty cows in there might deter me from entering…..) Where can you get this in London? I am coming back in August for a bit.

  13. Ps. I always thought that Montale’s Oud Cuir Arabie or whatever it is called (amazing how before their time they were) was pretty damn sexy too. Leather hairy biker, hasn’t washed for days..

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  15. I’ll be needing some of that Porn Oud, I reckon. 🙂
    Oh, not because I’m a tramp on the rampage, just because I LOVE the idea of wearing something utterly rude and filthy. Probably only to go to the Co-op, but hey, that’s half the fun.

  16. Ooo looks like my “to-try” list just got longer! Say, do you think this would be ok to wear at the office? I know it’s pornographic, but with a low sillage maybe…

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  20. I will admit to never having liked any of Dior’s fragrances. Leather Oud continued that trend.. My first thought was that this was a woman’s perfume, there’s nothing manly about it for me. After trying a little on my hand, I’m still waiting for a trace of leather to appear. No leather, and far too feminine; so a huge disappointment and waste of money.

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