The perfume and fashion loving public have been longing for a fragrance from clothing and accessories brand, Miu Miu for quite some time. Known largely for their handbags and shoes, the Prada-helmed fashion house knows youthful style quite unlike anyone else, and their aesthetic is undeniably feminine and fun. It’s no surprise that Miu Miu lovers would be keen for a fragrance to represent the aesthetic of such a key fashion brand. On the perfume front, Miu Miu’s parent company Prada has released a decent crop of exceptional perfumes in conjunction with the talents of perfumer Daniela Andrier. It stands to reason then, that a decent scent from Miu Miu would be a no-brainer, and despite some dissenting voices on the blogs, I really think it is just that.
“Natural and timeless in a contemporary way”¹ is the manner in which Miu Miu are describing their eponymous fragrance, which is penned by none other than Prada-favourite, Daniela Andrier, of course. Housed within the most gorgeous bottle to have graced the shelves of department stores in quite some time, Miu Miu the fragrance feels like a baby blue throwback to the pastel-shaded ’60s and ’70s, whilst keeping very much in line with the modern tastes of today. It also centres on lily of the valley, which means it’s a white floral, which therefore means that I was destined to fall for it hook, line and sinker. Just as expected, I did.
Lily of the Valley, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes and Akigalawood
How Does it Smell?
In the opening, Miu Miu lives up to the fun spirit of its beautiful flacon. Fizzy white flowers, bergamot and black pepper dance out of the bottle like a vivacious sprite that flits back and forth with youthful energy. The fragrance feels distinctly floral from the start, speaking in plumes of lily cream spiked with the contrasting grittiness of salt and pepper. There’s also an undercurrent of something green and crisp too, perhaps to evoke the idea of leaves and stems stored within the cold, condensation-filled air of a florists jam-packed refrigerator.
That gorgeous creamy quality extends for a large part of Miu Miu’s development however, after the initial buzz, things subdue dramatically and the fragrance takes on the quiet, paired-back quality seen within so many of the Prada perfumes. Jasmine intensifies the green aspect, folding its freshness gently in with the floral cream of Miu Miu’s plush core of crushed white petals.
In the base, Miu Miu becomes fuzzy and its edges sharpen. Akigalawood (a “note which was fractionated from patchouli oil and is used by Givaudan”²), brings a hippy-like patchouli vibe that contrasts the overall smoothness and plays nicely into the hands of the pepper to create a dark, spicy facet. From this point onwards, Miu Miu pretty much hums along in that state for the rest of its development.
To me, Miu Miu stands out from the crowd and offers up something subversive amongst its designer contemporaries. I find it to be fun, flirtatious and fancy-free in an easy, and relatable manner, whilst eschewing the tired and tawdry trappings of modern mainstream fragrance. Miu Miu may not be the boldest offering, but it is unique, and the modern yet retro-chic personality of the juice is completely in tune with the irresistible baby blue bakelite coloured bottle. Also, that peppery-lily vibe is just so darn irresistible, I want to bury my nose in it forever.
Miu Miu is available in 50ml (£66) and 100ml (£92) Eau de Parfum.
Sample via Miu Miu. Notes via Basenotes. Image 1 via Miu Miu. Image 2 my own. ¹ via perfumo.net. ² via Miu Miu.