At this point, MUGLER have provided more than enough evidence for us to declare that there is life on another planet. Having discovered the existence of extra terrestrials in 2005, the brand has paraded a variety of alien species under our noses, wafting solar vixens and Venus sirens that range from the luminescent and light to the indulgent and gourmand, not to mention the oud-filled! The great thing about MUGLER is that they’re rather good at these flankers, always paying respect to the olfactory signatures that make their pillar fragrances do bold and beautiful. So whilst we’ve seen an Alien invasion since 2005, it’s fair to say that these ETs have certainly come in peace.
For 2017, MUGLER are revisiting Alien once again with Alien Eau Sublime. MUGLER describe it as being “a new solar adventure” with a “fresh, energising and luminous new juice”. Teaming up once again with legendary perfume Dominique Ropion (Carnal Flower, Portrait of a Lady and a billion other classics), MUGLER have pieced together a fragrance that takes inspiration from white amethyst, evoking an experience that is incandescent and white in comparison to Alien’s glowing purple tones. As MULGER say: “Alien Eau Sublime takes to you to a universe bathed in light.”
Top: Mandarin, Orange & Galbanum
Heart: Jasmine & Tiare Flower
Base: Cashmeran, White Amber and Heliotrope
How Does it Smell?
Alien Eau Sublime certainly feels much juicier in the opening than Alien. Like a Jackson Pollock painting the top notes of mandarin and orange are splashed vividly across a muted backdrop. Their colours are vibrant – yellows, oranges and greens – and their tones are sharp, with a grapefruit-like bite that is a lovely compliment to the sweet juiciness. Galbanum is listed as a top note but I must admit that I cannot detect even a mere whiff of the dry, talon-like greenery that makes the note of galbanum so distinct and often so difficult.
In the heart Eau Sublime takes the syrupy, purple-coloured jasmine note of the original and turns it golden. The heart is distinctly and more traditionally floral, swapping syrup for sunlight with a misty and luminescent bouquet of jasmine and tiare flower. The presentation is much more transparent but somehow it manages to maintain the timbre of Alien’s intergalactic jasmine. For those that like a bouquet less bold then Alien Eau Sublime offers up something rather pleasant indeed.
In keeping with Eau Sublime’s brighter character, the base too has a more subtle approach. The original boasted a large dose of cashmeran, a velvety wood material that has a profile that ranges from spicy to fruity and vanilla, against a backdrop of creamy amber. The impression in Eau Sublime is largely similar with the difference being just a case of dilution. The base here feels skewed more towards softness and sweetness, with a translucent vanilla note caressing a silky white musk accord. It may not be as bold as Alien (a recurring theme here) but it’s hard to deny that it smells lovely.
I like Alien Eau Sublime. It manages to be fresher, more heavy on the citrus and decidedly more floral than the original, making for a luminous affair as promised, without being lighter or thinner (it is in fact, really quite warm). I wouldn’t even say that it fit the bill as a summer fragrance or something that would be . On the downside, these changes, whilst noticeable, aren’t going to hit one over the head and those that don’t like Alien aren’t likely to be convinced by this one either because the similarities are loud and clear. All this leaves the question as to whether it’s really a necessary fragrance to have within the Alien collection, especially when there is already Alien Eau Luminescent, another ‘brighter’ flanker on the market to. I’m not sure if I could say that it really is necessary, but I do enjoy how it smells and once again, MUGLER has proved that their flanker game is strong.
Alien Eau Sublime is available exclusively at House of Fraser in 60ml Eau de Toilette for £50. It will launch nationwide on 24 February 2017.
Sample, notes and quotes via MUGLER. Images are my own.