Christopher Chong, in-house Creative Director at Thameen London and I have something in common: we’ve both taken an extended break from the world of perfume but now we’re back! I’m certainly very happy to be back and to be smelling his work again. You’ll be familiar with Christopher’s fantastic work at Amouage, a brand that he really turned around and brought to the forefront of niche perfumery. The perfumes he creates are bold, innovative and often times challenging. He is not one to shy away from brashness, working with world-class perfumers to push the boundaries forward. You may have not loved everything he did at Amouage but you can never accuse anything he has worked on of being boring and for that, he deserves a huge amount of respect.
Having taken up residence at Thameen London, Chong presents The Britologne Collection. Consisting of six fragrances (as of now), this capsule collection within Thameen London’s wider oeuvre is an homage to Britain and the traditional Eau de Cologne, fusing both words together to create Britologne. The result is a collection that subverts that classic Eau de Cologne structure, pushing it firmly into the 21st century with fragrances that are dramatically unique and fantastic examples of olfactory storytelling. The Britologne Collection may be inspired by familiar themes, but if I’ve learned one thing from my years of sniffing perfumes created under the direction of Christopher Chong, it’s to expect the unexpected.
Let’s Sniff!
Fanfare was the first fragrance in the Britologne Collection, launching in 2023. Created by perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, it takes inspiration from Pygmalion (fun fact: I actually saw a performance of My Fair Lady with Christopher on an Amouage press trip to NYC, it’s a small world), specifically the Covent Garden Flower Market, which the play immortalises. Fanfare sets the tone for the collection nicely, with a vivid, vibrant citrus accord that showcases a perfect marriage of lemon and bergamot. It’s incredibly juicy and bubbly up top before transitioning into crisp, fresh cut flowers, aromatic vermouth and juniper. It’s bright, bracing and bold with just a hint of bitterness. A lovely, long-lasting cologne with lots of interesting things going on – an excellent place to start!
Next up is Bohemian Infusion which, if you want any indication of how this review is going to go, I’ve been liberally spraying on myself for a few weeks now. Created by perfumers Maurice Roucel and Alexandra Carlin, Bohemian Infusion is inspired by stories of the dandies who would frequent Covent Garden Piazza in more exciting and less tourist-trappy times. It’s a heady mix of grapefruit and spices (cardamom, cinnamon), with the clean watery feel of petitgrain and the cold, bitter aromatic tone of artemisia. All of that is surrounded by a whirlwind of transparent ambers resulting in a biting green scent with a gin-like vibe and a rich, patchouli base. It’s quite a hard scent to define and pin down, but I tell you now, it smells fantastic on.
Bravi (another outing for perfumer Bruno Jovanovic) is definitely one of the softer scents in the collection and it takes a brief detour into the world of the gourmand via Covent Garden Opera House. The central theme here is tuberose but rather than erotic, narcotic, or bubblegum sweet, this tuberose is something altogether different. It feels, to me at least, a bit of an out of focus tuberose (think 1970s movie, vaseline on the lens, it’s very that). A tuberose seen through the soft honey and walnut milk that surrounds it. It’s delicate, creamy, a little bit nutty-sweet and milky, with a subtle shimmer of citrus up top. Bravi may not be one of the most bold fragrances in the collection, but it’s certainly the prettiest.
Fans of leather and smoke will likely find Chords to be their favourite in the Britologne Collection. Exploring British-German composer George Handel’s London residency at 25 Brook Street (Handel House), perfumer Nathalie Larson creates a beguiling cologne that weaves smoke and sweetness together seamlessly. Wearing it, I imagine sipping Earl Grey tea with a drop of honey instead of sugar, whilst someone nearby is guzzling a smoky cup of lapsang, all of which is taking place in a room with auburn wood panelling. There’s a wonderful balance in Chords. Yes, it feels dramatic, but it’s never unwieldy and there’s a levity to it that is surprisingly playful. It’s leather and smoke, yes, but not as we know them.
Bold as Love continues the story of Chords and Handel House but 200 years in the future when the musician in residence is none other than Jimi Hendrix. The central theme of smoke is what links both fragrances together and perfumer Pierre Negrin describes utilising the smoky leather notes to “convey the raw and beastly energy he [Hendrix] he exuded on stage and his unique sense of style”. Bold as Love is an essay in sticky, juicy fruit notes and smoke. These two elements seldom go together but they work masterfully in this fragrance, evoking the striking image of a rock star on stage, drenched in the most vivid citrus cologne and viewed through a cloud of smoke. It’s fascinating.
Last, but certainly not least and taking centre stage is, well, Centre Stage. Launching earlier this year, and created once again by perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, Centre Stage places focus on one of the most traditional florals used in Eau de Colognes: orange blossom. Seeing as Centre Stage pays homage to the decadence of 1920s cabaret clubs, it’s no surprise that it opts for something much headier than the soapy-clean flowers found in most EdCs. I get hints of the sexually-charged, pollen-laden orange blossom from Gaultier’s long-discontinued Fleur du Mâle amongst the face powder, fur coats, lipstick and lavender. It’s a fragrance that smells like it’s having a whale of a time and you might too, if you wear enough of it…
The Verdict
Those familiar with Christopher Chong’s creative direction at Amouage will know that his work is usually big, bold and challenging. So seeing him operate within the parameters of Eau de Cologne is absolutely fascinating and feels like he really is exploring new territory. As expected, each fragrance is unique and wonderfully complex, but they have a wonderful diffusiveness to them that never feels oppressive. What it does do though, is breathe life and longevity into what is usually such an ephemeral genre. These are beautiful, present and multi-faceted fragrances that showcase unique twists on the classic structures of aromatics and colognes.
My favourites are Bold as Love (it’s so smoky, yet so sparkly, I can’t wrap my head around it!), Fanfare (the most classic-leaning cologne of the bunch, but with modern staying power) and Bohemian Infusion (gin, herbs, flowers, what’s not to love?!) But each fragrance in the collection is entirely unique. You might not love every single one (a sure sign that there’s a bit of something here for everyone) but I’d be surprised if there wasn’t at least one that you enjoyed out of these six fascinating fragrances.
I’ll be honest, Thameen London is a brand that I’ve never been hugely excited about. They have always created fragrances that smell lovely but have been somewhat lacking in personality. Well, until now that is. With Christopher Chong at the helm it feels like the brand is being steered in to more interesting waters. I recommend you hop along for the ride!
Availability
Each fragrance is the Britologne Collection is available in 100ml Cologne Elixir for £250. A Discovery Set with 3 x 10ml (Fanfare, Bohemian Infusion and Bravi) is available for £150.
Disclaimer
Products (pictured) gifted by Thameen London. Images are my own. This is not a sponsored post.
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