The Spirit of Chanel
Never underestimate the power of Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels. Having tried Chanel’ N°22 many times along my perfumista escapades I had never really found the love for it that I, and others thought I would. I mean it is a big aldehydic floral, and I’m sort-of into that kind of thing (OK, I love that kind of thing), but no N°22 never seemed to grab me, that was until an ever-persevering Birgit slipped a sample (and a number of hints, in an entirely non-pushy way I should add*) my way.
Now I will just put it out there that I have learned to love N°22, to me it epitomises the spirit of Chanel. It’s classy and elegant, but just that little bit rebellious. But whilst I enjoy it, I’m just not sure I’ll ever be running out to buy a bottle, my feelings very much lay in the ‘oh wow this is great but I don’t think I need it’ camp. That said, I am still definitely making my mind up about it and if there is one thing I have learned being a fumeophile it is that one should ‘never say never’!
N°22 was originally released in 1922, created by Chanel in-house perfumer Ernest Beaux (he of N°5 fame) it was intended as a lighter version of N°5. Chanel describes N°22 as “a skin scent [...] full of grace [...] (that) also bears the imprint of their (Chanel & Beaux’s) audacity.” N°22 now sits within the Les Exclusifs de Chanel line and I would probably rate it as my favourite Les Exclusif offering so far.
N°22 – The Queen of Aldehydic Florals
The Notes
Top: Aldehydes
Heart: Jasmine, Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang and Rose
Base: Vetiver, Vanilla and Incense
How Does it Smell?
Seeing as N°22 takes inspiration from N°5 you won’t be surprised to learn that it starts with a huge explosion of aldehydes. Imagine the moment a bottle of champagne is popped open, that initial release of pressure and burst of shimmer & sparkle, and you’re on the right track.
The aldehydes in the top notes are icy-cool and slightly, ever-so slightly camphorous. They take the overdose of aldehydes in N°5 to the next level, meaning that N°22 can be considered as the ‘quick book yourself into rehab before it’s too late’ kind of aldehyde overdose. This is the 5th November/4th July firework display, not the hand held sparkler. To put it another way, N°22 is the queen of aldehydes.
As the aldehydes subside to a soft twinkle, they make way for a beautiful blend of sweet florals. In the spirit of early Chanel creations the florals remain almost entirely abstract, giving the impression of a floral bouquet rather than individual notes. That said, a rubbery tuberose is quite easy to pick out at times and when pushed I can sniff out the faintest hint of dewy rose.
Underneath the abstract bouquet of flowers is an underlying vein of cool, aloof incense. I find the incense interesting because it is instantly recognisable yet completely alien in a way. It stops N°22 from becoming just another floral and puts it up there with N°5 in terms of being an concept piece, a composition that cannot really be linked back to nature.
The warmth of the dry down is a stark contrast to the icy-cool opening. It manages to showcase a number of strong textures and it is powdery and creamy all at once. It feels like beautiful suede or the softest velvet. What’s also really surprising is that, after all of the initial fan fair N°22 really softens and becomes the skin scent that Chanel promises. It wears like a couture Chanel silk.
N°22 is a beautiful perfume, the problem is that I was expecting a little more from it. Perhaps it’s a bit too close to N°5 to be considered special, it is alternative take on the N°5 theme after all, and those are some big shoes to fill. If I was pressed to choose between the two I think I’d probably go for N°5 because it has the richness that N°22 lacks, but I would recommend it for those who are looking for an alternative, slightly more floral N°5.
Which number would you go for?
Availability
N°22 is available in 75ml &100ml Eau de Toilette and 15ml Parfum. It is part of Les Exclusifs Chanel line and prices range from £100-£180.
Disclaimer
Notes vía basenotes.net. Image 1 reneeashleybaker.wordpress.com. Image 2 chanel.com. Quotes via chanel.com. * updated.
Well surprise surprise, I actually prefer No22
… But then I pretty much detest No5.
The most overhyped & undeserved fume on the market IMO. … The vintage parfum is waaay better, BUT still nothing special in my eyes. (nose !?) – It’s the one scent I detest smelling on a woman. It’s just obnoxious with no redeeming charm IMO. … (Give me Bois des Iles or Coromandel any day rather !)
And yeah you’re spot-on … Those aldehydes are almost lethal in 22.
It’s all bark and no bite …
They could kill a guy if he doesn’t approach with caution.
Aww come on N°5 is a classic! Yes it’s probably not the best thing ever made, but it was pretty innovative in its day and in Parfum it smells frickin’ amazing
Yes it was, back THEN – it also smelled very different (& much better if my 50′s vintage parfum [*read still not original juice*] is anything to go by) from what you smell now. And yes I agree that it was indeed innovative and groundbreaking – I can appreciate all that – I just don’t think it smells particularly attractive basically. Just way overrated scent-wise. THE most overrated !
Each to their own
Now I seem a bit pushy…
)
I prefer N°5 and N°22 alternately, there is a right time and place for both of them. They are very similar in the beginning, but the incense is surprising every time and it is a lovely surprise.
The Exclusifs just don’t seem to be your line, despite my best persuasive efforts. (Well, that leaves more money for Guerlains.
That lovely incense note is it’s only redeeming quality. … I also think that for such a transparent/light perfume it really doesn’t need that screeching start. Just so unnecessarily schizophrenic.
I wonder if it is more subdued in the Parfum?
Oh no, not pushy at all! I like how you got me to pay more attention to it
I agree that the incense is surprising and it really is what sets N°22 and N°5 apart.
Ooh yes, I’m definitely more of a Guerlain guy!
Me too !
– Guerlain are just superior in every way !
Yep. The Guerlain style is much more ‘me’ than the Chanel.
I thought it was ok but then I am not a fan of no 5 so I was never going to make a song and dance about it. Give me Bois des Iles or Cuir de Russie any day, my favourites from the exclusifs range.
That’s pretty much it, if your opinion of N°5 is “meh” then I don’t think you’d go nuts for N°22.
I have a sample of Bois des Iles and I seem to have trouble smelling it. Weird.
Perfect review sir! I’m starting to suspect that we own the same perfume sets in our homes. Right after the Amouage Interlude duet (note, the review of Interlude Woman just appeared on my blog!) I wanted to write one article about aromatic chemistry andf them follow with a Les Exclusifs de Chanel reviews mixed with other articles.
Funny!
I had the exact same thoughts while wearing No 22. That burst of green aldehydes and then the cold flower phase and some creamy vanilla to enjoy few hours later.
Were I to chose I would rather take No 22 than No 5, but If I could buy any of Les Exclusifs I would go either for Bois Des Iles, 28 La Pausa or 31 Rue Cambon I think.
I think you’re on to something there!
It seems that Bois des Iles is a key fave in the Les Exclusifs line. It keeps popping up! I must spend more time with it.
I’m trying to develop a nice blog with a wonderful audience
Yes, Bois des Iles seems to get a lot of love. It really is a beautiful scent. You surely need to give it some more skin time and you’ll know more
I shall definitely give it more skin time!
And I’m sure you will
I used to wear No 22 back in the day when I could get it at the mall before it became Les Exclusifs. For years I thought they had just discontinued it. I was shocked to find out at the start of my Internet perfume journeys that it was still out there it’s just Chanel decided to exclude me from access to it in a way. One of these days I’ll get a sample to see if it smells like I remember. I read in Perfumes The Guide that there are some similarities between No 22 and Lady Stetson but I’ve never sniffed them side by side to know for sure.
I liked 22 better than 5 back then but now I own some No 5 and can say that I do finally get it. I don’t think it’s the best thing in the world, but I do like it and understand it more now that my nose has matured a bit.
How rude of them to deny you your N°22!
It’s good that you have learned to appreciate N°5. Like you I didn’t think much of it at first but it really is very beautiful. It also varies wildly between concentrations. I have the EDP because I went through an 80s phase, but really the EDT and Parfum are the way to go.
I think you’d probably prefer the Parfum and of course the vintage is supposed to be far superior (isn’t it always? Sigh). It is certainly is the most “you” of the Chanels, but maybe the line is just too tame for a Mugler lovin’ fume fan.
I’m not a No.5 fan – never got to know the parfum though – and No. 22 is just too soapy, so neither are for me. I have FBs of Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie and 31RC.
Damn those elusive vintage perfumes!!
I agree, it is definitely the most “me” of the Chanels, and I think that’s why people have encouraged me to try it and spend more time with. I’m glad they did. I’m still making my mind up about it, perhaps it is too tame, or perhaps I should have tried it before N°5, maybe it would have been LOVE then. Who knows!
Wow – you are the Queen of Les Exclusifs de Chanel with those three whopping great big bottles!
Chanel No. 22 is one of my holy grail perfumes. It’s progression on my skin, from the wildly effervescent burst of champagne-bubble aldehydes to the joyous bouquet of white florals to the quiet and almost sacred drydown with its ethereal incencse … oh, this kind of unfolding is something quite beautiful and exquisite to behold, for me. And I don’t have the vintage No. 22, just the exclusif, but I love it … and it’s rich and lasting on my skin, not thin at all.
(I do have vintage Chanel No. 5 extrait and love that as well. I guess I’m a Chanel gal all around. Can’t get enough of Coco, Coromandel, Bel Respiro, and 31 Rue Cambon either.)
At any rate, though Chanel No. 22 isn’t total love for you, I thought you did a splendid job of describing her beauty!
You sound like a Chanel gal for sure!
I think you may have topped me on the descriptions front. I’m so glad that you love it as much as you do
No. 22 is the ONLY Chanel that I like, and I am seriously contemplating a full bottle purchase. None of the others do anything for me, but during a recent test of 22 I couldn’t stop smelling myself.
Looks like you’ve found your Chanel! I hope you do get a bottle.
I think my Chanel will always be Coco EDP. It’s the only thing strong enough to keep me happy
Now here I do completely agree.
… That dry-down on Coco (EdP or Parfum) is just to die for – absolutely gorgeous ! … So yeah I agree Coco’s definitely one of the better Chanels. (Can’t believe I forgot to mention her when listing fave’s before.)
Coco is the best Chanel…
I cannot wear (yet?) No.5 but in my testing I remember liking No.22. I plan to test it more but I rather like it than not.
I want to thank you though… No, not for the review (though it’s a good one, I agree with everybody above) but for the information about the parfum: only today I realized (thanks to your review!) that parfums from the Les Exclusifs collection come not in .25oz as my beloved No.19 but in .5oz – which makes them cheaper than the abovementioned No.19 parfum! I should definitely look closer into buying one of my favorites – Cuir de Russie or Bois des Iles.
I am very glad to have been of service!
The parfums really do sound like the concentration to go for…
I’m very late to the game, but I had to weigh in on this – I far prefer the floral incense skin scent of No. 22 to No. 5! It’s a masterpiece of perfumery, in my opinion.
It certainly is very lovely.
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the difference between Chanel no 5 NYC and Chanel no 5 Paris…is the difference between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans