CurioNoir is a fragrance brand created by New Zealander, Tiffany Jeans. It’s a brand based on craftsmanship with fragrances presented as Extrait de Parfums and scented candles in handblown glass jars. Each of the fragrances have a personal connection to the founder and it shows – they are all distinct, different and showcase an entirely new point of view, that of Jean’s Maori heritage. When i sniffed through the collection there was one fragrance that really stood out, both because of its striking concept, but also because of its olfactory beauty. That fragrance was Pūroto Rose – the handsome rose.
The concept behind Pūroto Rose is really quite beautiful. So beautiful, in fact, that I feel as if the only way to give it justice is to quote it directly:
Three distinct scents filled the air at Ngatihaua Witehira, Tiffany’s great grandfather’s, tangi (funeral). The celebration of life with hot soil, the smell of smoke from the hangi (a traditional Maori meal cooked in the ground), and roses which adorned the tables in the food hall.
I told you it was beautiful.
Rose de Mai
Haiti and Java Vetyver
How Does it Smell?
Pūroto Rose is a dark, spicy rose right from the outset. It has none of the ruby red vibrancy of a rose accented by berries, instead it is a deep burgundy rose crafted out of heavy velvet and illuminated by the crackling spice of cumin. There is a juicy, citrus edge, but it is the dry, dustiness of pepper and the sweaty, human warmth of cumin that accents the voluptuous note of rose here, and the result is an impression of dried roses perfectly preserved.
Underneath all of this is earth, smoke and wood. The sharpness of vetiver is tied to the sourness of the rose, amplifying its metallic facets. Wood and smoke bring a mineral feel but also a heat that burns softly under the rose, creating the image of hot smoke rising from dark black earth. Pūroto Rose is a fairly linear fragrance and instead of developing slowly over time it presents its ceremonial rose in a tableau – a rich tapestry of olfactory images to be experienced all at once.
Here’s a big fat disclaimer: I’m a sucker for a good rose (a fact that has been well documented on this blog) and Pūroto Rose is a VERY good rose, so it is absolutely no surprise that I’ve fallen head over heels for it. I feel as if it is a beautiful story and concept executed with a clear olfactory vision. I smell it and feel as if it is a rose of ritual – one that showcases the interplay of light and darkness, the physical and the ethereal. Pūroto Rose is a vibrant red rose buried smoking in the earth and it’s absolutely glorious.
Pūroto Rose is available in 50ml Extrait de Parfum for £150.
Sample, notes and quotes via Curionoir. Images are my own.