Hey there, it’s been a while.
I’ve been a bit out of the loop with new fragrance launches for quite some time. Whilst I’ve still maintained an interest and have visited stores to keep up to date with what’s fresh and exciting, I have to admit that I’ve only been moved by a handful of new scents over the last 12 months or so. Perhaps I’m too out of the loop or I’m not smelling the right things, or maybe I’m just getting fussy in my old age, but certainly in the mainstream, there doesn’t seem much to get me excited.
I did recently come across something that tickled my nose in the right away and I’m sure you’re already guessing what it is: Eau d’Ombré Leather, the latest launch from TOM FORD. I’ll admit now that I hold the controversial opinion that the TOM FORD Signature Collection (Black Orchid, White Patchouli, Noir, Costa Azzura etc.) is miles better than the more expensive (and often, IMHO, underwhelming) Private Blends. I’d happily own one of each of the Signature Collection scents (and in fact, do own my fair share) and this new, somewhat lighter interpretation of the staple Ombré Leather (which I do also love) is no exception.
So here I am, raising my head tentatively about the parapet to tell you about a fragrance I like. Feels a bit like old times, doesn’t it? I’ve missed writing a lot (and snapping shots of fragrances to accompany that writing too) and a huge amount has happened since my last post in October 2021. I feel like I’m an entirely different person to who I was then and maybe I’ll be a completely different writer, who knows. I’m not sure if I want to write more than this or more often. This may not be me jumping back into the pool, it may just be more a case of me dipping my toe in, but I do know that I felt compelled to write something today. So, here we are. Let’s see if I can remember how to do this…
Let’s Sniff!
The Notes
Fresh Ginger, Coriander, Cardamom, Vanilla Tincture, Leather Accord, Amber, Honeyed Woods
The Perfumer
Olivier Gillotin & Sonia Constant (Givaudan)
How Does it Smell?
Let’s kick this off by saying that leather fragrances are incredibly varied in style, ranging from the plush, soapy Russian-style leathers of scents like CHANEL Cuir de Russie (you know, the ones that smell like mooooooney) to the salty, meaty leathers of things like Mona di Orio Cuir (ham, basically, just ham), and beyond to the thick, tarry leathers of Etat Libre d’Orange Rien. They are also, for me personally, often a bit tricky to wear. The smokier and saltier they are, the more olfactorily dehydrated they make me feel (yes, that’s a thing I just made up, but you know what I mean) and very often they feel like they are wearing me.
The leathers I do like sit somewhere in the middle of the extremes – the ones that are plush, dusty, doughy and chic (Miller Harris Etui Noir), or the smoky, funky and pleasingly raunchy ones (Eau de Boujee Quir), or even the slightly sexy and a little bit fruity ones, just like the original Ombré Leather, in fact. Whilst this new “eau” version from TOM FORD is a lighter interpretation of that erotically-charged original, it’s actually an entirely new fragrance altogether – one that hints at somewhat subversive fragrances from the realms of mainstream and niche.
The brand describe Eau d’Ombré Leather as “an amber leather scent inspired by the American West at dawn” but to my nose it’s less of a leather and more a PVC, although I’ll accept the amber part as being spot on. Instead of raw, wild leather, we have sleek black PVC. This is less cowboys and raw hide and more catsuits and dark rooms. Opening with a tingle of fresh spices and a warm, milky balm of saffron, Eau d’Ombré Leather almost lulls one into a sense of freshness for a few seconds, before diverting quickly into an intense, fur-like warmth. A crackle of pepper and aromatic waves of cardamom bring a hint of the exotic evoking, against the backdrop of sweet amber that is top loaded from the base, a hint of chai, or some other spiced beverage.
I often think of fragrances in terms of texture and Eau d’Ombré Leather masterfully weaves a range of sensations together. It’s initially quite rubbery, with a shiny, plastic feel (it also has the scent of rubber, not just the texture) but with time, it unfurls into something plusher, more creamy and fluffy. I wouldn’t quite say it’s comforting and perhaps the enjoyment comes from how that overtly sexual, latex-like accord clashes against the more innocent, enveloping body of creamy fluff, creating a sense of tension and exciting discomfort.
There is nothing new under the sun, as they say, and the world of fragrance is no exception. Yes, Eau d’Ombre Leather shares the same DNA as Ombré Leather, but it feels more like a distant cousin than a brother. The connecting themes are leather and amber but their interpretation here is so different I don’t think many people will smell it and think “Ombré Leather“. For me, it actually shares much more in common with two very different fragrances: Etat Libre d’Orange’s squeaky clean latex suede Tom of Finland (now sadly rebranded simply as ‘Clean Suede‘, likely due to licensing reasons) and YSL’s fantastically sexy Body Kouros. Eau d’Ombré Leather shares the rubber-like, saffron-suede accord of the former (albeit with less of the fresh-out-of-the-shower cleanliness) and the anise-vanilla theme of the latter. It’s an unusual collision of olfactory worlds that blends seamlessly.
This is a fragrance of contrasts. When I wear it my mind instantly thinks “SEX”. It’s all muscles, warm bodies and fetish clothing. But simultaneously, it’s so warm, cosy and adorable, one can’t help but think of chunky knitwear, enveloping blankets and steaming cups of something tasty. Therein lies the excitement and like us humans, Eau d’Ombré Leather contains multitudes. Yes, it can be DTF, but also it can’t be bothered and is happy to snuggle up with a good book instead. I find this stark contrast strangely compelling and I think Eau d’Ombré Leather does that thing that all good flankers do: it pays homage to the structure and spirit of the original whilst having enough of a unique identity to justify its own existence. Top notch stuff.
Availability
Eau d’Ombré Leather is available in 10ml (£37), 50ml (£95) and 100ml (£127) Eau de Toilette.
Disclaimer
Images are my own. I purchased this bottle myself. This is not a sponsored post.
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