Mona di Orio
1969-2011

The news of the death of Mona di Orio on Friday was both shocking and incredibly sad, it marked a great loss for the perfume industry and for all within the perfume-loving community. Mona di Orio was an exceptionally talented perfumer, and from all accounts a truly wonderful person, I did not know her personally, nor did I ever have the chance to meet her, I have however, gained a huge sense of enjoyment through her fragrances and I am extremely thankful for her contribution to the perfume industry. The Les Nombres d’Or collection is nothing short of a triumph and her legacy will live on through her perfumes. My thoughts are with her friends, family and co-workers at this very difficult time

I had originally scheduled a review of Tubéreuse for the end of next week, but in light of the recent events I thought it would be fitting to reschedule it and include it here, as a tribute to Mona di Orio’s extraordinary talent.

Tubéreuse is part of the Les Nombres d’Or (The Golden Numbers) collection which refers to the golden ratio, a mathematical theory of proportion that is showcased in the collection via fragrances centred around a single note, masterfully accentuated by other ingredients.

The collection currently consists of seven fragrances; Oud, Musc, Tubéreuse, Vanille, Cuir, Vétyver and Ambre.

The Notes

Pink Peppercorn, Bergamot, Absolute Tuberose from India, Benzoin, Casmeran and Heliotrope [1]

How Does it Smell?

I adore tuberose, it is possibly my all time favourite note in perfumery, there is a raw carnality to it, a sense of danger, of lust and of forbidden encounters. In most of the classic tuberose fragrances the perfumer has amped up the carnal nature of the flower, but Mona di Orio, who’s line of perfumes does things a little bit differently, has tamed this Queen of white flowers.

Tubéreuse starts fresh, green and hugely peppery. Now, whenever I see ‘Pink Peppercorn’ in a notes list I tend to roll my eyes, it really does seem to be the note du jour, and I find it’s over-exposure quite tiring. The difference between the use of pink peppercorn in mainstream fragrances and in Tubéreuse is astounding, here the pepper is used to spice up the green stems and the white petals, and it works. A touch of bergamot is used to lighten up the top notes, and combined with the pepper the effect is natural, fresh and almost botanical.

Within the heart the green notes are accentuated by the addition of a of a strong jasmine note which, continuing the theme initiated by the pepper, adds a floral spice that keeps the idea of ‘green stems’ running throughout the heart. Jasmine and tuberose are two flowers that go exceedingly well together; the green, spicy quality of the former tones down the hot, sweet quality of the latter. Together the two white flowers create a fresh, yet indolic aura that surrounds the wearer, with flashes of sweet, almond-like heliotrope.

In the base the white florals do what white florals do best, they become creamy, earthy and sweet. Benzoin and a clean musk give the base a soft, fuzzy texture and along with the creamy, indolic nature of the white florals, this fragrance becomes absolutely glorious and one cannot help but bask in its beautiful light.

Tubéreuse is a very solid composition, I would say that it is incredibly pretty, and I don’t mean that in a derogatory way at all. I am surprised to find myself liking Mona di Orio’s fresh, lighter take on tuberose, I usually opt for the raunchier tuberoses, but this one succeeds where L’Artisan Parfumeur failed with Nuit de Tubéreuse, it is a fresh, lighter tuberose that still retains the signature of my favourite white flower.

Like each of the perfumes with the Les N’Ombres d’Or collection, Tubéreuse showcases Mona di Orio’s talent for creating a fragrant essay on established genres and how she could bring new and exciting ideas to the table.

Those who are not keen on tuberose as a note should really give Tubéreuse a try, it is tuberose viewed from a completely different angle and whilst being lighter, fresher and greener it does remain recognisably ‘tuberose’. Tubéreuse is a wonderfully radiant floral and I have chosen to add it to The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Tuberose as ‘The Radiant Tuberose’.

Availability

Tubéreuse is part of the Les Nombres d’Or collection and is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £145.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a sample generously provided by Ines of All I Am – A Redhead, thanks Ines!

Image 2 luckyscent.com

[1] monadiorio.com