Mugler’s Fetish Material – Thierry Mugler Angel, Alien & Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir and A*Men Pure Cuir Perfume Reviews

Haute Perfumery

Haute Perfumery

To celebrate 20 years of haute perfumery, Thierry Mugler parfums is launching a collection of limited edition fragrances with a leather twist in October. Harking back to the origins of traditional perfumery and the link between perfumers and glove makers, Mugler sets to unleash four luxurious limited editions of its four famous fragrances.

Angel, A*Men, Alien and Womanity have all been given the leather treatment, having been infused with tailor made leather pieces in metal caskets for a period of four weeks. These brand new leather interpretations aim to enhance the original compositions with “intense, innovative carnal notes” and showcase Mugler’s four iconic fragrances through “the prisms of leather.”

“(Les Parfums de Cuir) The Fragrances of Leather is a journey to the heart of Mugler fragrances, with a noble material, for a collection of 4 exceptional creations”

As with all things Mugler, Les Parfums de Cuir promises to be an innovative collection of olfactory twists on four fragrances that have each created the mould for their respective genres. So throw on your leather corsets, suits and boots we’re off on a tour of Planet Mugler, and this time we’re doing it in style.

Angel, Les Parfums de Cuir

Angel, Les Parfums de Cuir

“From its fusion with natural leather over a four-week period, Angel borrows its most sensuous notes. The fragrance takes on “addictive” leather facets with iris accents, as well as delicious apricot facets. The initial eau de parfum becomes all the more enticing.”

Pierre Aulus
Thierry Mugler Olfactory Artisic Director

The Notes

Top: Bergamot and Manadarin
Heart: Passion Fruit, Peach, Apricot and Leather
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Chocolate and Caramel [1]

How Does it Smell?

Angel has received the flanker treatment many times over its 20 year life span. We’ve seen liqueur, bitter dark chocolate powder and a whole heap of flowers added to it and this new leather version is right up there with best versions of Angel to have been unleashed on to the world.

Right from the outset this Angel is much drier and more bitter than the original. The cocktail of fruit we are used to seeing in Angel is significantly muted, having been replaced by a big   slab of leather, which is definitely of the couture kind, rather than the harsh and smoky birch tar kind. There also seems to be a good sprinkling of floral powder, possibly iris, that adds an extra layer of glamour to an already very glamorous perfume.

In the base the warm vanillic and sugary caramel facets of the original are all but gone, leaving room for bitter dark chocolate, leather and patchouli. The overall impression is, for want of a better word, rather “fierce”. I mean that in the best possible way of course, this Angel takes no prisoners and she struts along the catwalk steely eyed, full of purpose and looking (and smelling) pretty darn fabulous.

Angel, Les Parfums de Cuir smells like a piece of Mugler couture, made entirely out of leather and doused in Angel – Mugler’s signature scent for a signature piece. It is the olfactory representation of the back stage area at a Thierry Mugler show – fabulous, carnal and oozing with style.

Alien, The Fragrances of Leather © Chic

Alien, Les Parfums de Cuir

“On contact with leather for four weeks, Alien becomes all the more enveloping and captivating. The amber notes are magnified by a special leathery effect, close to suede. The eau de parfum takes on a leathery depth, rounded off by gourmand dry fruit accents, which amplifies Alien’s magnetism.”

Pierre Aulus
Thierry Mugler Olfactory Artisic Director

The Notes

Top: Sambac Jasmine
Heart: Cashmeran and Solar Notes
Base: White Amber and Leather [2]

How Does it Smell?

When it comes to Mugler’s annual limited editions I always look forward to the revamping of Alien like a cat on catnip. I adore Alien the most out of all the Mugler babies, as well you know and with each and every year Alien has just got better and better, with the Liqueur de Parfum, the Le Goût du Parfum and the Essence Absolue, each being slightly better than the last.

So how does Alien, Les Parfums de Cuir fair? Well, it certainly isn’t my favourite version of Alien, that accolade goes to this year’s Essence Absolue, but it certainly isn’t bad either. The leather intensifies the fruitiness of Alien, whilst adding a fuzzy quality as well as something sour and discordant. It smells like a leather handbag that has had a bottle of Alien residing in it for far too long.

If you like Alien then this version is certainly worth trying, however I do find it to be the least interesting of the four leather editions, possibly because it is the most unoriginal. Perhaps the bar was set a little bit too high by the Essence Absolue for this one to impress, or maybe it just not different enough from the original, whatever the reason this Alien does not make me scream to be abducted.

Womanity, The Fragrances of Leather

Womanity, Les Parfums de Cuir

“For its Fragrance of Leather version, Womanity Eau de Parfum adopts a more sensual personality, more intense and faceted; after an extended immersion with “natural leather”, it discloses as subtle amber, leathery tone that echoes the labdanum notes already present in the composition”

Pierre Aulus
Thierry Mugler Olfactory Artistic Director

The Notes

Top: Citrus Notes and Green Notes
Heart: Figs, Caviar Accord, Animal Notes, Aquatic Notes and Leather
Base: Fig Tree, Woodsy Notes, Oriental Notes and Sunny Notes [3]

How Does it Smell?

OK so let me get this straight Mr. Mugler. You want to take the already bizarre blend of figs, brine, yeast and caviar that is Womanity and add leather to it? Are you sure this is a good idea? Should I stand back when you dunk the leather in? I mean I’m pretty sure the thing might explode. You know this is madness right?!

Madness, they say, is the closest thing to genius and the addition of leather to the already-bizarre composition of Womanity is the stroke of inspired intelligence that turns it into something beautiful, luxurious and nowhere near as bat shit crazy as the original. Brace yourselves Womanity-haters, you may just find yourself loving this one…

Womanity, Les Parfums de Cuir is a much softer interpretation of the original, where the milkiness of the fig feels creamier and the strong, astringent quality of the citrus is dialled down considerably. The fabulous bready, salty accord that makes the original so wonderful is still there and coupled with the hammy quality of the leather this Womanity gains an extra animalic facet, with touches of labdanum that makes it the most superior version yet.

I wasn’t expecting to love Womanity, Les Parfums de Cuir as much as I do, I really wasn’t. My thoughts towards Womanity (and the wonderful Le Goût du Parfum version) has always been admiration, even enjoyment but never full-on love. This version however, is the absolute bees knees, it is just so luxurious & refined, and as far as the collection is concerned I consider it to be the best of the bunch!

A*Men, Pure Cuir

A*Men, Pure Cuir

“After four weeks of maturation on contact with raw leather, A*Men develops a new leather dimension brought to life by animal hints. The highly dosed patchouli note becomes softer, more mysterious and more rounded.”

Pierre Aulus
Thierry Mugler Olfactory Artistic Director

The Notes

Top: Bergamot, Helional, Lavender and Peppermint
Heart: Coffe Bean, Tar, Patchouli and Lavender
Base: Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Caramel, Chocolate and Musk [4]

How Does it Smell?

A*Men is one of those “kitchen sink” scents. It seems to contain just about everything you could imagine and even more, just for good measure. Every year we see something new added to this cocophony of smells, so far we’ve had; coffee, whisky, tobacco and chilli, and now we have leather.

Pure Cuir starts out in a very similar way to A*Men, but with this incarnation there is a strong undercurrent of leather sitting beneath the original structure. If Angel, Les Parfums de Cuir’s leather is fetish-like, then Pure Cuir’s is more ‘new car’, and perfectly showcases the smell of fresh, untouched leather seats.

I find that the mint is more pronounced in this edition of A*Men than any other, and on the other hand the lavender and tar facets are barely there at all. The heart is much fruitier, with accents of stewed apricots, and touches of something vaugely floral lurking in the background, before settling on A*Men’s signature base of patchouli, vanilla and chocolate.

A*Men Pure Cuir is soft and plush, much more so than I thought it would be, and it’s definitely less “raw hide” than it probably sets out to be. Still, it is very macho, and whilst it may not be as obviously leather based as say, Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather, the combination of A*Men and cow skin works exceptionally well and I can see it becoming a fast cult favourite with the Muglerati.

Availability

Angel, Alien and Womanity, Les Parfums de Cuir will be available in 30ml EDP for £40 and A*Men Pure Cuir will be available in 100ml EDT for £45. All four fragrances are due for release in October and will be available from all Thierry Mugler ambassador doors.

Disclaimer

PR samples. Images and quotes via press release. [1], [2] & 3 osmoz.com. [4] basenotes.net.

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50 thoughts on “Mugler’s Fetish Material – Thierry Mugler Angel, Alien & Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir and A*Men Pure Cuir Perfume Reviews

  1. When can we get our hands on these? You make them sound wonderful, I already love Womanity and can’t wait to smell the Cuir version after reading this. BTW, I found a bottle of A Traverse des Miriors and had to get it after seeing it in your postcard collection post. It is wonderful! Thanks for introducing me to the wonderful world of Mugler!

    • They are released in October! 😀

      If you love Womanity you are going to ADORE Les Parfums de Cuir version!

      I’m so glad you picked up A Travers le Miroir! It’s a very unusual, and very beautiful fragrance 😀

  2. And you already have them in your hands? How come!? Great reviews sir! I’d like to give ’em a single try, don’t see myself buying any of them. Leather is not my note.

  3. lol ” this Alien does not make me scream to be abducted”

    Leather Angel just sounds better and better to me. I wonder how widely available they’re going to be.

      • Oh please don’t worry. They should be pretty easy to get hold of compared to a lot of stuff. Just planning ahead!

      • It’s no trouble at all. I realised that in my sleepiness whilst writing this review I forgot to add the availability section, which I’ve now updated.

        They should be available from all TM ambassador doors (I’m assuming that’s all department stores with a proper TM section) in October 😀

    • Hi Ervin

      I usually add an ‘availability’ section for every review but for some reason forgot on this one, I have updated it now.

      As usual Pure Cuir is an EDT.

      The longevity is excellent (as expected) but it is a little softer sillage-wise than the original (only a little).

  4. Leather angel – now is that a name to conjure with or is THAT a name to conjure with? 🙂
    And I do like the idea of Cuir Womanity not being as ‘bat-shit crazy’ (nice description). That’s the one I’ll try to sample.

    But being the purile, childish creature I am, you know what I want to hear, don’t you? That they’ve finally succumbed to the logic of their fragrance names and called the next masculine C*Men. Because I’d laugh about that. I’d laugh even more if they called it C*Men Cuir…
    (I know – I’m very bad. Do spank me.) (Oh gods, sorry – got to stop reading this 50 Shades book…)

    • It sure is! Oh, and yes do try Womanity, it’s frickin’ gorgeous!

      I get the impression that they won’t release another brand new masculine for a while, after all B*Men (whilst being awesome) Flopped with a capital “F”.

      And as for your suggestion for C*Men? Let me fetch my paddles…

  5. That saccharine A*Men base + leather sounds disgusting. And a caviar accord? Thierry Mugler, I DARE you to put a detectable, saline caviar note in that scent. You do that and then we’ll talk. Until then, this is just more perfume ad copy nonsense. I can’t believe people eat this stuff up.

    • That “caviar accord” has always been in Womanity. (Some ‘ad copy’ you’ve obviously missed till now !) … If u so wish for a “saline caviar accord” in a scent why not just give Womanity a try ? – As beyond it’s rather silly name it’s a perfectly unisex scent. – (Or are u just far too insecure & not “man enough” to wear a frag’ named “Womanity” ??)

  6. Oh wow – I’m really happy to see that the one I was/am most looking forward to (i.e. Womanity Cuir) is exactly the one you’ve fallen for most & think the best of the lot. (YAY !!) … I mean I’ve always enjoyed W (in both ‘incarnations’), so am now convinced I’ll probably enjoy this new version even more.

    And as far as ‘A*Men Pure Cuir’ goes, it seems from your description that they’ve taken it in pretty much the exact direction I’d hoped they would. (Another YAY !!) … So now I’m even more excited for their release. – Roll on October ! 🙂

      • You know, cause I really like W’, I’ve searched high & low for a sample of the LGDP version (especially since so many reviewers seem to prefer it). However, after all this time, I’ve yet to get my mitts on a sample. (Now, after even begging ‘Mugler-Customer-Services’ countless times to no avail, I’ve finally resigned myself to the fact that I may never kno the magic of ‘fig-chutney’.) 😦 … I’m now seriously hoping I won’t have the same dilemma with the ‘Cuir’ one.

      • Well I certainly hope so – Searching for that elusive LGDP sample was damned frustrating. … And yep, I’m in good ol’ Londinium. (Not that hustling samples, especially of lmt-eds, is any bloody easier round these parts – Unless u’re actually ‘doin’ a SA, forget it !) 😀

      • Oh wow T’ – thanx – that’s a very kind offer. – And one which I’ll of course accept with wide open arms & wide grinny face. 🙂 … Ooh and must admit, u being all extra nice to me like this is gettin’ me all rather … um, … ( best I just PM u … 😀 )

  7. I cannot wait to sniff these. I love my Mugler scents. I love the “bat shit crazy” juice that is Womanity. I am dying to smell it with a dose of leather.

  8. So thrilled to hear that the new Womanity is so good! I dreamt last night that I found a set of minis of all four of these for only $16… that’s when I realized that I was dreaming!! 😀

  9. I found each edition quite different one to the other. The only one I associated to the original A*Men was Pure Malt. I’m looking for a bottle of Alien Essence Absolue. Sounds amazing!

  10. I found each edition quite different one to the other. The only one I associated to the original A*Men was Pure Malt. I’m looking for a bottle of Alien Essence Absolue. Sounds amazing!

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  14. I realize this comment is years after the fact but I just discovered A*Men Pure Cuir as a first Thierry Mugler for Men fragrance and I have to tell someone who will appreciate how I feel about it. 1st and foremost, I love your blogs. I love that you love fragrances the way I do. I love your descriptions they are SPOT on and very creative. My 1st experience to the house of Thierry Mugler came by way of happenstance. I had not shopped for any fragrances for over 10 years. I had major hip reconstruction surgery over 10 years ago and had horrible complications. During the 3 year recovery period and being unable to walk, I also lost a person whom I had loved like or more than a mother. Everything combined sent me into a deep and dark depression. I stopped going out, I stopped socializing and I I basically stopped living my life the way I had grown accustomed to. I almost even lost my life partner of 19 years, who is now my legal wife. In my slow emergence from the depths of a depressive hell. I started to realize that something I had loved very much from my past might help me feel happy and uplifted. That something was the world and art of fragrance. I remembered how happy I would feel when I was making soy candles and soaps at home during a time when life was good and happy. I remembered how happy I felt with all the different scents that filled my home and work room. I remembered how I used to buy every single new cologne that came out and how good I felt always surrounded by a cloud of my favorite fragrance of the day or week. One of my favorites from the past was DKMEN Fuel. Although I new it had been discontinued many many years ago I googled it trying to find the notes. This is when I discovered Basenotes and Fragrantica, from that day forward I have been happily addicted to learning about and discovering everything I can about the perfume world. I have even begun to feel intrigued about creating my own fragrances once I feel I have mastered as much as I can by way of learning. I never did find the exact notes recipe for DKMEN Fuel or Unleaded other than a few very basic descriptions but I did discover that there was a re-issue/reformulation available at Neiman Marcus in the USA with a pricetag of $120 for 3.4 ounces.

    Anyhow getting back on track. Due to trying to figure out what I loved so much about Fuel and/or Unleaded I began to discover the scents in the formulation one by one. When I sampled both the Suede and Leather notes separately, I was intoxicated, intrigued and In LOVE. Then began my mission to try and order samples of fragrances with a strong influence of leather and/or Suede. I ordered samples based on days, weeks and even months of reading reviews and recommendations on forums. I had to take this route because unlike others, I still do not have the ability to drive myself to a mall or department store to sample fragrances. Almost 80% of my shopping must be done online. My wife works full time and sometimes 60-80 hours a week so asking her to sacrifice the little free time she has to cart me around to collect samples would be selfish of me. I have learned to adjust to my disability and depend on the internet, ebay, amazon and buying online period. I am truly taking life’s lemons and making lemonade. The only problem with spending money on samples which would otherwise be free at a department store is the blind buy disappointment factor. I have discovered that no matter how much praise a fragrance gets that does not guarantee that I will personally like it. Furthermore most simple 1.2ml niche fragrance samples can cost $20 and up. A painful blow to the pocket for something I might not like or have enough juice of to truly wear, sample and appreciate. I am not at all complaining, just sharing the facts. I have not allowed this to get me down or make me give up on my new fascination and hobby. I just take it all in stride and buy when I can or save up when I cant. Again this whole new world of happiness is a result of a healing of sorts instigated by my love and passion for scents and aromatherapy. .

    After reading many mixed reviews of A*MEN Pure Cuir I decided to go for the blind buy, I found a NIB Bottle of 3.4oz on Ebay for $35 with free shipping. Again, I had yet to try anything at all from the house of Mugler except for Alien which I bought for my wife for Christmas. But that is a whole other wonderful experience I can share another time. So I ordered and received my bottle of Pure Cuir and after ripping the wrapper off of the box and opening the box as if it were food and I had not eaten anything for days, I delivered the bottle into my hands and of course fumbled with the sprayer. (Mr. Mugler I Love You But What Were You Thinking When You Designed The Sprayer Part Of These Bottles??) I quickly found a GREAT solution on YouTube and was able to finally pump out my 1st few sprays. The next moments were what I can only describe as Angels coming down from the skies all decked out in Schott’s Fitted Leather Hide Pea Coats while their wings flapping held them suspended over and around me and fanned me with the PURE scent of leather. Instantly I was and am, In LOVE. Now if I could just get my hands on the Angel Mugler’s Angel and Alien Les Parfums de Cuir, I am sure I will be done in for. Then of course I feel a STRONG obligation to at the very least sample if not own, all of the Le Gout du Parfum’s. But 1st, I must complete my A*Men Collection by acquiring the 5 I am still missing. PURE Tonka, PURE Coffee, PURE Shot, B*Men & ICE Men. I have become a real Thierry Mugler fan and look forward to discovering all of his offerings including all of the Les Exceptions. If anyone has samples or decants I can promise no one would appreciate them more than me. I am on a journey of healing and self discovery. I am happy to share my story to let others know how something as simple and complex as a fragrance or fragrances can have such a huge impact and make a real difference in ones life. I keep living so that I can again feel truly ALIVE.

    • Wow, what a wonderful and inspiring comment. You really are making lemonade with life’s lemons. I’m so sorry to hear what a tough time you’ve had and I appreciate you sharing your passion here with me. Perfume is more than just smelly water, it really does have the ability to bring joy. Please do keep me up to date on your fragrant journey!

      • Greetings again! Thank you so much for your response and kind words. Yes, I agree, Perfume is so much more than smelly water. My wife just surprised me with a bottle of A*Men Ultra Zest and I find it to be a very interesting fragrance, I have to spend a day or two with it to be able to share my opinion. So far Pure Cuir and Pure Havane have my undivided attention. With your experience and knowledge can you tell me what you think about the women’s Angel The Fragrance Of Leather? Something tells me I will really LOVE this but again with my shopping limitations, and not being able to test fragrances as easily as others, I am afraid to fall for the blind buy. So far the only fragrance from Thierry Mugler that I don’t get or care for is Pure Energy. Unfortunately I will probably be posting my new in the box bottle up on basenotes for sale or swap. Not that this is a bad memory because most of my childhood memories with my aunts and grandmother are good if not great, but this scent reminds me of being at the beauty salon back when I was a kid and would sit and watch my aunt and grandmother sit in one of those big chairs with big hose and a blow drying cap attached to it. For some reason that scenario is what the scent reminded me of. It’s funny how smells can bring back memories we otherwise would have never remembered or thought of. 🙂 I look forward to your thoughts on Fragrance Of Leather as compared to Pure Cuir.

      • My apologies for taking so long to reply! I really am useless at keeping on top of things.

        Ultra Zest is really cool. Funnily enough, their new Pure Tonka arrived on my doorstep last week. I shall review soon.

        I really like the ‘Leather Angel’. It’s like a Mugler handbag scented with Angel. Gorgeous stuff.

        I quite like Pure Energy (I went to the launch when it was called Pure Shot and met Oscar Pistorius himself – that’s another story). It works so well in the heat.

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