When I heard that historic candlemaker Cire Trudon was to launch its very own line of perfumes I actually let out a small squeal of excitement. I’ve been obsessed with their scented candles for ages, mainly because they not only smell tremendously beautiful, but also because they take inspiration from unusual and historic places. A Cire Trudon candle is no ordinary candle and if the brand’s approach to home fragrance is anything to go by, one knows that their perfumes are going to be something really extraordinary.
Trudon (the perfume line drops the ‘Cire’ from the name) launched their perfume collection this autumn with five fragrances that reference “religion, royalty and revolution”. The brand worked with perfumers Antoine Lie (Etat Libre d’Orange Sécrétions Magnifiques & Comme des Garçons Wonderwood), Lyn Harris (of Perfumer H and formerly Miller Harris) and Yann Vasnier (Jo Malone The English Oak & Marc Jacobs Bang) to create their debut collection and the whole thing feels finely curated, from the clarity of the scents to their flacons, which boast simplicity in shape but also luxury with their stunning, ribbed glass caps.
I was sent Bruma to sniff. Bruma (Latin for ‘solstice’) was created by Antoine Lie and is described by Trudon as being “a ray of sunlight” that “spreads with the strength of a shadow”. The image of a woman on horseback is alluded to in the press release, with nods to the animalic, the nocturnal and the moonlit. It’s a complex mix of imagery that gives the impression of a deeply contrasting fragrance, one that speaks to change – the shift of seasons and the transition from day to night, and night to day.
Top: Black Pepper, Lavender and Galbanum
Heart: Violets, Purple Peony, Iris and Jasmine Sambac
Base: Labdanum, Haitian Vetiver and Tonka Bean
Antoine Lie (Takasago)
How Does it Smell?
Violet, iris and peach, oh my – that’s my first reaction when sniffing Bruma. It opens soft and blurred, in sepia tones. The iris has a beautifully clean and cool paper-like feel to it, whilst violet accents bring sweetness and a richness of colour. The peachiness comes from the peony, which adds a fresh, rosy vibe to the soft texture of the iris, giving the impression of the most beautiful shade of blush. The opening is stunning. It shimmers and sparkles, but somehow also has a matt texture to it. In fact, I love it so much that I find myself reapplying the fragrance at regular intervals, just to experience that beautiful opening, and its fascinating contrasts, once more.
The transition from top to bottom is startling in Bruma, but it happens so subtly that one doesn’t notice the change. The sparkling softness of the opening half slowly unfurls into a warm base of woods and leather. I do get a hint of the promised tonka bean – a sweet, hay-like note that rounds things off with an earthy, cosy feeling, but for the most part the dry down is all about the auburn colours of suede and blond woods. Like the fragrance’s first half, the base is effortlessly wearable with a tone that is utterly affable.
Bruma is a really pretty fragrance. It’s kind of unassuming in its character, presenting itself as a casual peachy floral that doesn’t want to draw too much attention to itself. There’s a softness but also a sense of brightness that makes Bruma a really easy wear. It’s cool and spring-like, with an intimate softness that can only be described as delicate. For iris lovers it’s an absolute must and for anyone who enjoys the radiant style of brands such as Maison Francis Kurkdjian etc., Bruma is a worthy contemporary. It may not be wildly unique or challenging but gosh is it pretty.
Bruma is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £165.
Sample, notes and quotes via Cire Trudon. Images are my own.