Carine Roitfeld is the former Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue and if her debut collection of perfumes are anything to go by, she is clearly someone who enjoys perfume. The idea behind the collection is seven fragrances inspired by seven lovers in seven different cities. In all honesty, I’m a bit ‘meh’ about the concept, and I’m certainly more than a bit ‘meh’ about the bottle which, despite its hefty weight and magnetic cap (we love a magnetic cap, we do), is just, dare I say…..ugly? 😐
Anyway, aesthetically challenging packaging aside, the Seven Lovers Collection shows that Carine Roitfeld certainly has taste when it comes to perfume and she has used it wisely when collaborating with perfumers Aurélien Guichard, Yann Vasnier and Pascal Gaurin, to create her collection. Out of the seven, I’d say four were interesting (George, Lawrence, Har-Wai and Orson), which isn’t a bad hit rate, let’s be honest. My favourite by far was George, which is inspired by an encounter in a bookshop in London. I must ask Carine which bookshops she’s been visiting because they certainly sound like a lot more fun than your average Waterstones! George is a modern chypre that harks back to some wonderful green scents from the past. I’m obsessed – so much so, in fact, I can forgive that bloody bottle (I promise not to mention it again)…..well, almost.
Cannabis, Iranian Galbanum, Violet Leaf, Jasmine, Rose, Iris, Oakmoss, Wood, Earth and Leather
Yann Vasnier (Givaudan)
How Does it Smell?
Well initially, fizzy and green. To be honest, I could start and end this review by saying that, if CHANEL’s Nº19 (one of my all time true loves) and Cristalle were to have lovechild, then George would be it. But that would not be doing full service to George who, because of his wonderfully beautiful parents (the aforementioned CHANEL scents in this analogy that has probably wandered too far) is a rather handsome chap indeed. Initially, George is incredibly fresh and sharp, sparkling with citrus fizz and the resplendent warmth of rich galbanum. There is an austere, angular quality to the green approach that I enjoy here and whilst there are touches of iris and rose, they don’t add any softness, instead intensifying the austere and standoffish effect. George really does feel like a modern interpretation of both Nº19 and Cristalle.
As George dries down, it becomes much mossier and drier. George leans into the woods, earth and leather, but with subtlety and transparency. At no point does it feel heavy or old fashioned, it just feels airy, light, chic and contemporary. The base is notably quieter than the opening, which is all green fizz and fanfare, and it stick very close to the skin, leaving a gauzy trail of soft moss, smooth leather and woods. I really enjoy the fragrance and I think that it’s great to see a modernisation of the classic green theme.
Longevity & Projection
I’d say that both longevity and projection are good. George isn’t a powerhouse and doesn’t have the heft of the big green bombs of the ’70s and ’80s, he leans much more fresh, sparkly and transparent. So don’t expect a massive explosion of scent, but the presence is good and long-lasting.
George is available in 90ml Eau de Parfum for £190.
Images are my own. Sample (full size) sent by brand for review. I was not paid for this review and the brand had no say in the content.