There are so many fragrance launches each year it’s difficult to write about them all. Speed Sniffs is a way to bring you to the point reviews fragrances that are quick and easy to digest. After all, sometimes all one needs is a few lines to capture the essence of a scent. Speed Sniffs are perfume reviews without all of the faff and tell you whether the subject is something you want to sniff or not. So hurry up and read, because we don’t have much time…
I reviewed L’Envol de Cartier in its original Eau de Parfum concentration last year so I am designating this Eau de Toilette as a speed sniff, mainly because the differences between the concentrations are not huge – but they are notable, which is why L’Envol Eau de Toilette is worthy of a review. The first flanker to L’Envol presents a fresher signature, taking the honey, mead and iris notes of the original and making them weightless with citrus and gaiac wood. The result is a fresh oriental that gives wings to the complex richness of the original.
So how does it smell? Well, much like the original if I’m honest, but more spacious. The top notes pack less of a punch and are lightened with glistening citrus notes. These notes allow for the sparkle of L’Envol to really show off, dissipating that strong violet leaf accord that I found so troubling in the original. The honey and mead are more diluted too, adding a hint of carnal warmth underneath but nothing in comparison to the yeastiness of L’Envol Eau de Parfum. It’s a welcome change and feels ultimately feel a little bit more in balance here, resulting in a more understated take on Mathilde Laurent’s “divine ambrosia” for Cartier.
I feel like the Eau de Parfum was a more interesting piece of work, with its luminous honey notes and grey yeastiness, but it wasn’t a fragrance I’d personally enjoy wearing. The Eau de Toilette feels less unique but it still holds true to the spirit of the original and is altogether easier and more comfortable to wear due to its lightness of hand and refreshing citrus notes. I certainly feel more comfortable wearing this over the Eau de Parfum however, Nigel, aka Mr. Candy, who rates L’Envol Eau de Parfum as one of his all-time favourite fragrances (he wears it at least once per week) found the Eau de Toilette lacking. So go figure!
Sniff This If…
…you want an unusual masculine fragrance that sets you apart from the crowd but is neither confrontational nor challenging. Also, if like me you found the original just a little bit too heavy on the violet leaf, then the Eau de Toilette may just click perfectly into place for you too.
L’Envol de Cartier Eau de Toilette launches on 04 September and is available in 50ml (£63) and 80ml (£84) sizes.
Sample, notes and quotes via Cartier. Images are my own.