More! More! More! That’s what we want! Give us more!
Us greedy perfume lovers are very lucky because the perfume industry serves us up an all you can smell buffet with every kind of fragrance imaginable. There are fresh aperitifs, rich main courses evocative of exotic cuisines, and not to mention the desserts – oh the deserts! The perfumery dessert cart is filled with chocolate parfaits, rose macrons and candy floss knickerbockerglory sundaes. What’s more, this entire buffet is endless and brands are constantly us up more – more in the form of new treats, all for our insatiable appetite for scent.
This need for more doesn’t just apply to the volume of scent though, no, it also extends to the intensity of the fragrances we wear and one can guarantee that, when a brand launches a popular scent there will be an ‘intense’ or ‘extreme’ version that follows. Often, these flankers can be a little bit superfluous but sometimes they can do something really wonderful by giving more of the scented goodness that made the original so good. A perfect example of an ‘extreme’ done well is the new Straight to Heaven Extreme from By Kilian, which takes the booze and woods of the original, and intensifies them, resulting in something utterly excessive.
Top: Dried Fruits & Rum
Heart: Patchouli, Nutmeg and Jasmine
Base: Vanilla, Cedarwood, White Musk, Amber and Rosewood
Sidonie Lancesseur (Robertet)
How Does it Smell?
Straight to Heaven was a unique blend of rum, vanilla and patchouli that all came together in a hedonistic haze of deliciousness. Extreme takes that signature and turns the dial all the way up to ‘OMG I SMELL DELICIOUS’. The rum is boozier, the vanilla creamier and the patchouli fizzier. The woody component, which was more subtle in the original is much more pronounced with a strong, and wonderfully spice cedar note taking stage. The balance has shifted from the transparent shimmer of the original to something weightier in the extreme. There’s also a strong floral vibe in the form of jasmine which adds to the overall richness of the composition.
What I really enjoy about Straight to Heaven Extreme is its dryness. One gets the impression of an ancient cask that has been used to transport many types of good in its lifetime. The wood is impregnated with centuries of rum, vanilla, spices and patchouli, imbuing it with a rich and unique odour. Overall, I think Straight to Heaven Extreme covers much of the same ground as the original but it has a larger presence which, in my humble opinion, is never a bad thing. Ever. I feel as if the amped-up cedar note brings greater weight and allows for the perfect amount of contrast needed for more of a balanced fragrance. It also smells so jeffing sexy, I cannot cope.
Straight to Heaven Extreme is available in 50ml Eau de Parfum for £230.
Sample, notes and quotes via By Kilian. Images are my own and include background imagery by David LaChapelle’s book ‘Hotel LaChapelle’.