I do love tuberose, it’s true, but it often feels that all of the great tuberoses have already been well and truly done. After all, it’s pretty difficult to best the likes of Fracas, Carnal Flower, Tubereuse Criminelle and Beyond Love now, isn’t it? But every now and then a new tuberose will come along that brings something new to the table, something that isn’t photorealistic, venomous, raucous or all of the above – something that is the antithesis of all of these truly wonderful things.
The thing is, tuberose can be rather demanding (it is reportedly known to corrupt virgins, you know) and it has a tendency to dominate every molecule of air it comes into contact with, so one can be found craving the beauty of tuberose but with a little less of the baggage. Enter Tuberose Angelica by Jo Malone London, an everyday sort of tuberose that is high on prettiness and low of drama. Created by perfumer Marie Salamagne (who also made the brand’s tremendous Mimosa & Cardamom), Tuberose Angelica is part of the Cologne Intense collection, but despite its dark, brooding packaging, it has one heck of a sunny disposition!
How Does it Smell?
Bright pastel pink and bubblegum-esque, that’s how Tuberose Angelica opens up, but not in a vivid or overtly sweet way. The angelica, which takes more of a backseat to the tuberose at the wheel, adds a crisp, pepperiness that also had a crunchy green feel to it. Straight away, Tuberose Angelica feels like a tuberose with the heaviness dialled right down, but it is by no means a wallflower, nor is it think or shrill . It feels like is is shaded in the palest shade of pink – the type of hue that could be white, if it weren’t for the tiniest hint of pink pigment.
For the most part, Tuberose Angelica is relatively linear. Once the pepper and green nuances of the top notes fade, one is simply left with a sweet tuberose that comes in a milky texture. It’s not quite transparent but neither is it opaque, boasting just the right level of translucency for it to be intriguing. There are some smooth woods in the base, but for the most part, pink and white swirls of tuberose milk is what Tuberose Angelica has to offer, but when it’s this pretty, it’s difficult to complain.
Tuberose Angelica took me by surprise. I was expecting a watered-down white floral with a sharp and shrill nature , but what I got instead was a beautifully milky tuberose with swirls of white and pink. This is a fragrance that is effortless and pretty. It’s wearable as well undemanding, but it also brings a newness to the world of tuberose that I’ve not seen before, specifically the silky, lactonic texture. This is a very pretty fragrance, but it’s not delicate. It’s casual but also elegant and as far as tuberose fragrances go, Tuberose Angelica is not to be overlooked. I’ve certainly been rocking the heck out of it!
P.S. if you are a tuberoseaphobe, then it may just have the right pitch for you. Tuberose Angelica is far from a wan, diluted floral but at the same time, it’s not a vamp, vixen or vandal that’s likely to scare the horses (or you know, the virgins). It’s worth considering if you have a tuberose affliction that need curing. Just saying…
Tuberose Angelica is available in 100ml Cologne Intense for £105. A matching Body Crème is also available for £60/75ml.
Sample, notes and quotes via Jo Malone London. Images are my own.