Speed Sniffs are a way to bring you ‘to-the-point’ fragrance reviews that are quick and easy to digest. They are perfume reviews without the faff.
*Unpopular Opinion Klaxon* I like Mon Guerlain and I think a lot of you are being unnecessarily grumpy about it. Yup. I’m not sorry. The way I see it, GUERLAIN has to make fragrances that appeal to the mass market as much as they need to keep the likes of Jicky and L’Heure Bleue on the shelves. They have always taken styles populised by others and given them a Guerlain twist (see Mitsouko, a twist on Coty’s Chypre, for example) and that’s exactly what Mon Guerlain is – a Guerlain take on the caramel, ethyl-maltol intensity of the likes of La Vie est Belle. The difference with the Guerlain? It smells good.
Mon Guerlain is candy floss by way of a Jicky-esque lavender and it is eminently wearable. I find it cosy, delicious and easy to wear in winter. I was not however, so keen on the Florale version that launched earlier this year which, for some reason seemed off somehow. Now we have Mon Guerlain Eau de Toilette, the third instalment in the Mon Guerlain series and the second to launch this year – we can’t accuse GUERLAIN of being lazy, that’s for sure!
Mon Guerlain Eau de Toilette is presented by GUERLAIN as a “citrus oriental” with notes of mandarin, carla lavender, sambac jasmine and vanilla tahitensis. They see it as a scent that presents a freer expression of the GUERLAIN woman – one that is seen through a lens of transparency and freshness. Let’s speed sniff.
The freshness of Mon Guerlain Eau de Toilette is immediately apparent with a blast of clean, juicy mandarin. It is suitably sparkly and has a soapy, white floral facet that I’m not mad at. In fact, this version feels much more floral the EDP and even the Florale for that matter. The balance has been shifted dramatically, with the denseness of caramel dialled right back to allow for the vibrancy of the fruit, white flowers and lavender to shine through.
The lavender is less prominent too and I suppose that is the only element of Mon Guerlain EDT that feels a little bit lacking. The malted, gourmand lavender is what makes the EDP so wonderful, in my eyes, so to see it cleaned up into an abstract, herbal sweetness works within the fragrance, but it does seem as if some of the character has been lost in the process. It’s not a deal breaker though and the smooth, creamy vanilla base feels as cosy and comfortable as the Eau de Parfum, which is to say very cosy and comfortable!
Beautiful. Mon Guerlain EDT works as a fresher, lighter and clearer alternative to the EDP (it feels more spacious) without the marzipan-play-doh facet found in the original, and I say ‘alternative’ because I don’t think you need both, unless you’re a massive fan. I feel as if the EDT feels a bit more classic, with the amped-up mandarin giving it more of an aromatic, hesperidic feel. I like it very much and whilst I don’t think I’d choose it over the Eau de Parfum, which I really do wear quite a lot, I’d certainly be tempted to pick this up for the summer months. Good work.
Sniff This if…
…you couldn’t quite get on with the Eau de Parfum but wanted to OR if you are a Mon Guerlain grump, because this may just be the one that resonates. If not, then move along sir, nothing for you here.
Mon Guerlain Eau de Toilette is available in 30ml (£41.85), 50ml (£55.80) and 100ml (£78.30) sizes.
Sample, notes and quotes via GUERLAIN. Images are my own.